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• Exploring Thunder Bay
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• Beloved Bayfield
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• Winter weekend in Monticello
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• Trail mix
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Summer in Stillwater

Historic Minnesota river town is a favorite weekend getaway.

After more than 150 years, this Minnesota river town's unrefined early days are history.

Once, legions of unkempt lumberjacks mobbed the streets of Stillwater, spending their wages at saloons and bordellos. Now, mobs of weekend tourists roam through town, sipping cappuccinos, sampling wine and shopping for gifts and antiques.

Stillwater has come a long way since the days when King Pine ruled. Reminders of the era are everywhere, however, in mills that now house antiques malls and splendid Victorian houses. Many of the lumber barons' houses now are bed-and-breakfasts and still carry their names — Bean, Mulvey, Sauntry, Staples. But a walk along any Stillwater street will yield a bumper crop of other painted ladies, complete with turrets, cupolas, gables and wrap-around porches.

On Main Street, old brick storefronts showcase gift shops and restaurants, and hundreds of dealers operate out of the many antiques stores. With its high-level shopping and high-level lodgings — most of the rooms in the town's B&Bs are lavishly appointed, with such features as fireplaces and double whirlpools — Stillwater is a popular destination for couples.

But people of all kinds enjoy a ride on the motorized red trolleys that chug up and down Stillwater's hills, with narrators explaining the colorful history of the town, and why Stillwater calls itself Minnesota's birthplace: not because it was the first town, but because it hosted the 1848 convention that made Minnesota a territory.

Older people make return visits to the 1927 Lowell Inn, the scene of many honeymoons, anniversaries and birthdays. Stillwater still is a popular place to stage important occasions. In addition to the inns, the refurbished excursion train Minnesota Zephyr also serves as a place to celebrate.

Twentysomethings patronize the bars, stroll along the riverfront on warm evenings and churn up the St. Croix River on paddlewheeler party boats, which look much like excursion steamers of a century ago. For Lumberjack Days in July, they pile into town by the thousands.

Even children like Stillwater. Up on Second Street, they can play at Pioneer Park, a tiny square with a vast view of the St. Croix River Valley. On Main Street, they can stop at sunny Lily's for a malt and a burger.

And in summer, everyone enjoys the festive air of Stillwater streets — one more thing that hasn't changed since lumberjack days.

Trip Tips: Historic Stillwater

Getting there: On beautiful summer weekends, the stretch of Minnesota 95 that leads into Stillwater can be congested. Go early in the day to avoid the worst. People coming from the Twin Cities also can avoid the traffic jam by getting off Minnesota 36 at Osgood Avenue, then taking Third Street to downtown.

There are many parking lots along Second Street between Nelson and Mulberry streets and between Water Street and the riverfront.

2008 events: May 17-18, Rivertown Art Festival in Lowell Park.  July 8-Aug. 19, Summer Tuesdays: Market, Music, Movies in Lowell Park from 4:30 p.m., www.summertuesdays.com. July 24-27, Lumberjack Days, with national music acts, www.lumberjackdays.com. Oct. 4-5, Fall Colors Fine Art and Jazz Festival. Nov. 16, Victorian Christmas at the Historic Courthouse.

Accommodations: Stillwater is well-supplied with B&Bs in historic Victorians, all with luxuries that include double whirlpools and fireplaces. Come during the week if you can; on weekends, especially Saturdays, many rooms are $200 or more.

Members of the Stillwater Bed & Breakfast Association are the 1878 Ann Bean Mansion, 651-430-0355, www.annbeanmansion.com; the 1892 Aurora Staples Inn, 651-1187, www.aurorastaplesinn.com; the 1883 Elephant Walk, 888-430-0359, www.elephantwalkbb.com; the 1878 James A. Mulvey Residence Inn,  800-820-8008, www.jamesmulveyinn.com; the 1895 Lady Goodwood, 651-439-3771, www.ladygoodwood.com; the Rivertown Inn, 651-430-2955, www.rivertowninn.com; and the William Sauntry Mansion, 800-828-2653, www.sauntrymansion.com.

The 1850s Cover Park Manor is just south of Stillwater in Oak Park Heights, 651-430-9292, www.coverpark.com.

The Water Street Inn is on the riverfront by the Lift Bridge, 651-439-6000, www.waterstreetinn.us. The Lowell Inn is at Myrtle and North Second Street, 651-439-1100, www.lowellinn.com.

There are many less-expensive lodgings off Minnesota 36, including the Holiday Inn Express, 651-275-1401; Country Inn & Suites, 651-430-2699; and Super 8, 651-430-3990.

Dining: On a beautiful summer day, the Dock Café on the river is irresistible, 651-430-3770, www.dockcafe.com, as is the big patio of the 1883 Freight House, 651-439-5718, www.fhstillwater.com.

On Main Street, Savories Bistro serves elegant lunches and dinners, 651-430-0702, www.savoriesbistro.com.

Other restaurants on Main Street include Luna Rossa Trattoria and Wine Bar, 651-430-0560, www.lunarossawinebar.com; BT Doyle's Rib Joint in Brick Alley, 651-439-2852, www.doylesribjoint.com; Marx Wine Bar and Grill, 651-439-8333, www.marxwbg.com; Stone's Restaurant in the Grand Garage, 651-439-1900, www.stonesstillwater.com; and Smalley's Caribbean Barbeque and Pirate Bar, 651-439-5375.

Lily's is a good place to have lunch with kids. For a picnic, pick up sandwiches from the River Market deli at 221 N. Main St., www.rivermarket.coop, and take them up North Second Street to Pioneer Park.

Shopping: Main Street is lined with shops (See Bargain-hunting in Stillwater).

Trolley tours: The Stillwater Trolley Co. offers 50-minute narrated tours daily from May through October, hourly from 10 a.m. on weekends and at 11 a.m and 1, 2, 3:30 and 5 p.m. weekdays. Tours also are given on nice weekends in April and November. Fare is $14, $7 for children 17 and younger. Trolleys leave from behind the Freight House Restaurant. 651-430-0352, www.stillwatertrolley.com.

Boat tours: The Andiamo paddleboat gives public lunch and dinner cruises, $17.65-$29, and monthly Friday-night band cruises, $12. 651-430-1234, www.andiamo-ent.com.

Gondola tours: Let a gondolier row you along the St. Croix in a real Venetian gondola, 651-439-1783, www.gondolaromantica.com.

Train tour: The Minnesota Zephyr goes 7½ miles into the countryside on 3¼-hour excursions, including a five-course dinner, $73-$83 plus gratuity. 651-430-3000, 800-992-6100, www.minnesotazephyr.com

Wine tour: Northern Vineyards on Main Street offers daily tastings, 651-430-1032, www.northernvineyards.com.

Information: 651-439-4001, www.ilovestillwater.com.

Last updated on July 19, 2008