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Cabins & cottages

Where to stay on Minnesota's North Shore

Everyone wants a place on the big lake, and here's a guide to the best.

In summer and fall, don't rely on luck to get a reservation on Minnesota's North Shore.

In the heat of summer, everyone wants to bask in Lake Superior's cooling breezes. In fall, everyone wants to see the fall colors. On winter weekends, skiers flock in.

Below are a few of the many places to stay; reserve as far in advance as possible for popular dates, especially Minnesota's school break in October. Usually, it's the third weekend; in 2010, it's the fourth weekend.

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Cabins for a crowd

When groups travel, they divide costs and multiply benefits.

Contrary to common wisdom, the best deals in travel aren’t too good to be true.

The key is to travel with a group. Gather 20 people, and you can bring costs way, way down. How does $6.50 per night sound?

That's what I paid when I went to Whitewater State Park with my outdoors group, the Minnesota Rovers. It was late October, but the bluff-country park still was covered by a quilt of color: russet, burgundy, bronze.

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Michigan's great lake cabins

In the only state that borders three Great Lakes, the best places to stay are in state parks.

On a summer day in Holland, Mich., all roads lead to the beach.

When we were there in June, people streamed toward this broad swath of sand until the sun fell low on the horizon, making the fire-engine-red harbor beacon glow like an ember. They ate ice cream, they strolled on the breakwall, they took a last dip in Lake Michigan.

But at 10 p.m. sharp, a police cruiser started flashing its red lights to shepherd everyone out of the park.

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A cottage of one's own

If you like privacy and want to treat yourself, consider these spots.

It’s not every inn that makes a guest feel like a Rockefeller.

But when my husband and I walked into the Wilson Schoolhouse Inn, we figured we’d really risen in the world.

“Hey, for once I feel like a millionaire,’’ Torsten said, bounding around the restored Prairie-style school. “This is unbelievably cool.’’

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A cabin in Iowa

Spectacular scenery lies at guests’ feet in a resort-like state park.

What a way to spend a weekend: hiking up and down ravines, clambering on rock, admiring views of water from ridgelines.

“It’s like hiking on the North Shore,’’ my husband said.

But it wasn’t Lake Superior’s North Shore. It was Iowa. And everyone knows Iowa is one big, flat cornfield.

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Lodgings in Minnesota state parks

Surrounded by nature, a lucky few sleep in relative luxury.

If you don't have a cabin of your own, Minnesota has one you can borrow.

Some really are cabins, but others are houses, complete with two-car garages, like the one at Bear Head Lake State Park, previously occupied by the park manager. Some were private houses that have been renovated, like the Illgen Falls Cabin in Tettegouche State Park.

There's something for everyone in Itasca  State Park: rooms in a historic lodge, classic cabins, motel-style rooms and new suites with computer access. It doesn't have camper cabins, but you'll find those at 22 other Minnesota state parks.

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Seeking an outdoor hot tub

It's just the thing on a cold winter day, but only a few resorts and inns have one.

In winter, there's nothing better than relaxing in a hot tub after a day outdoors.

Hot tubs are a dime a dozen — inside B&Bs and hotels. But the ones outside? Much harder to find.

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Snug on the St. Croix

In a Minnesota state park, guests dwell in comfort amid 7,000 acres of beauty.

In the middle of Minnesota's Wild River State Park, a ski’s length from 35 miles of groomed trails and a 10-minute trek from the St. Croix River, sits a cozy little house surrounded by forest.

For one winter night, the two-bedroom, carpeted house, a private residence built not long before the park was established in 1978, belonged to me and my children.

We arrived at dusk, and my children swarmed over it as only children can do, giving a running commentary: "Boy, this is a nice cabin,’’ said 6-year-old Peter. "Wow, a nice shower. Isn’t this great? And oh, look’’ — he peered out the window at a big thermometer — "you can tell the temperature.’’

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Spring in western Wisconsin

Near Menomonie, a log house is headquarters for hiking, mushroom-hunting and bicycling.

Every year, the wily morel eludes me.

Living in the city doesn’t help. So one May, I rented a house on 160 acres in western Wisconsin and brought four pairs of eyes to help me look.

We’d just arrived at the Log House in the Forest near Spring Valley and were sitting on the patio when a man emerged from the forest and presented us with two fat morels. It was owner Tom Genz, so we quizzed him on technique.

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Adventures in renting

Thanks to VRBO, a no-frills group lives beyond its means on a trip up north.

If you’ve always wanted a second home – or a third, or a fourth – now is the time to acquire one, at least for a weekend.

People who snapped up beach houses and country retreats during the real-estate boom now are renting them out, trying to pay the mortgage. But renting a vacation house straight from the owner was popular even before the bust: Why not see how the other half lives?

Browsing the pages of HomeAway and Vacation Rentals by Owner – VRBO, the biggest and best-known listing service – is like going on the Parade of Homes, except you get to stay in the house you like best.

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What to bring to a rented cabin

Some places are well-equipped and some aren't; here's a packing list.

There’s a surefire rule that applies to rented houses: Anything you really need but don’t bring is exactly what the house won’t have.

Virtually every house has coffee filters. But the house I rented on a lake in Cable, Wis., didn’t, and I was reduced to straining coffee — unsuccessfully — through paper bags and toilet paper. It also didn’t have paper towels, a cutting board, a corkscrew or kindling.

It did have many items that often are sorely missed — a colander, a juice pitcher, a muffin pan and — wonders! — a decent chopping knife.

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Renting a vacation house

If you have pets, small children or teens to feed, try making someone else's home your castle.

My niece loves a big Rottweiler named Rza, so her travel opportunities are limited.

But one October, I rented a lake house near Cable, Wis., that allowed dogs, and both of them came. And we all had a great time: When Rza's happy, everyone's happy.

"This is probably the best weekend of her life,'' said my niece, after we’d spent the day romping on the lawn and in the nearby forest.

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Cabin on a waterfall

On Minnesota's North Shore, a state-park guesthouse is a prized hideaway.

In Minnesota’s state parks, the goodies go way beyond hiking trails, picnic sites and fishing piers.

Minnesota parks house their visitors, too, not only in campgrounds but in suites and cabins and lodges and even a few split-level homes. Of course, they're very popular. (See Lodgings in Minnesota state parks.)

But the most popular place of all is the Illgen Falls Cabin in Tettegouche State Park, especially in summer. For what could be better than having a 45-foot waterfall, spa and swimming hole in the back yard, with entertainment from a corps of cliff jumpers?

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From yurt to B&B on the Gunflint

In a snowy Minnesota wilderness, guests get the best of two worlds.

When it’s 30 below in the north woods, that's nothing like a cold day in Siberia.

It’s more like a cold day in Mongolia.

Temperatures were dangerously low over New Year's when we drove with friends to the Gunflint Trail, but we knew a wood fire would be waiting for us in a round, canvas-sided hut called a yurt, or ger in Mongolia.

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Heirs to a hideaway

High above Minnesota's North Shore, a spot at Tettegouche Camp is as prized as ever.

Every week, a few dozen people join an exclusive club high above Minnesota's North Shore.

To get there, they lug all their food and gear 1¾ miles up and down a steep hill. They draw their own water and make their own fires. They clean and then lug their garbage over the same hill.

And they consider themselves lucky.

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Ensconced in Ely

A guesthouse overlooking Bear Head Lake is just one of the hideaways in Minnesota state parks.

In Bear Head Lake State Park near Ely, there are three places to spend the night: a tent, one of five rustic camper cabin and a modern split-level.

On a subzero day in winter, one is better than the others.

Minnesota's state parks are sprinkled with houses or cabins that can be rented. Some are marvelously atmospheric, such as the log cabins built in Itasca for the tourist trade. Others came with annexed land and the state remodeled them; in Tettegouche, the Illgen Falls "cabin'' is handicapped-accessible, with a big deck, gas grill, gas fireplace and kitchen with microwave, full refrigerator-freezer, computerized oven and glass-ceramic range. (See Lodgings in Minnesota state parks.)

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