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Summer in Stillwater

This historic Minnesota river town is a favorite weekend getaway.

After more than 150 years, this Minnesota river town's unrefined early days are history.

Once, legions of unkempt lumberjacks mobbed the streets of Stillwater, spending their wages at saloons and bordellos. Now, mobs of weekend tourists roam through town, sipping cappuccinos, sampling wine and shopping for gifts and antiques.

Stillwater has come a long way since the days when King Pine ruled. Reminders of the era are everywhere, however, in mills that now house antiques malls and splendid Victorian houses.

Many of the lumber barons' houses now are bed-and-breakfasts and still carry their names — Bean, Sauntry, Staples. But a walk along any Stillwater street will yield a bumper crop of other painted ladies, complete with turrets, cupolas, gables and wrap-around porches.

On Main Street, old brick storefronts showcase gift shops and restaurants, and hundreds of dealers operate out of the many antiques stores.

With its high-level shopping and high-level lodgings — most of the rooms in the town's B&Bs are lavishly appointed, with such features as fireplaces and double whirlpools — Stillwater is a popular destination for couples.

But people of all kinds enjoy a ride on the motorized red trolleys that chug up and down Stillwater's hills, with narrators explaining the colorful history of the town, and why Stillwater calls itself Minnesota's birthplace: not because it was the first town, but because it hosted the 1848 convention that made Minnesota a territory.

Older people make return visits to the 1927 Lowell Inn, the scene of many honeymoons, anniversaries and birthdays. Stillwater still is a popular place to stage important occasions.

Twentysomethings patronize the bars, stroll along the riverfront on warm evenings and churn up the St. Croix River on paddlewheeler party boats, which look much like excursion steamers of a century ago.

Even children like Stillwater. Up on Second Street, they can play at Pioneer Park, a tiny square with a vast view of the St. Croix River Valley, or at charming Teddy Bear Park at Second and Nelson streets. The park has a miniature Lift Bridge, a hollowed-out tree, a toy train and other fun play structures.

On Main Street, families can stop at sunny Leo's for a malt and a burger.

And in summer, everyone enjoys the festive air of Stillwater streets — one more thing that hasn't changed since lumberjack days.

Trip Tips: Historic Stillwater

Getting there: On beautiful summer and fall weekends, the stretch of Minnesota 95 that leads into Stillwater from the south often is congested. Go early in the day to avoid the worst.

People coming from the Twin Cities via Minnesota 36 can use one of two shortcuts: Manning Avenue to Minnesota 96, which leads to Minnesota 95 north of downtown; or Osgood Avenue to Third Street.

There are many parking lots along Second Street between Nelson and Mulberry streets and between Water Street and the riverfront.

2013 events: May 18-19, Rivertown Art Festival in Lowell Park. July 2 through Aug. 27, Summer Tuesdays: Market, Music, Movies in Lowell Park from 4:30 p.m.

July 13, Taste of Stillwater at St. Croix Vineyards/Aamodt's Apple Farm. Oct. 5-6, Fall Colors Fine Art & Jazz Festival.

On Wednesday evenings from June 5 through Aug. 28, there's Cruisin' on the Croix in Lowell Park, with vintage cars and '50s music.

Accommodations: Stillwater is well-supplied with B&Bs in historic Victorians, all with luxuries that include double whirlpools and fireplaces. Come during the week if you can; on weekends, especially Saturdays, many rooms are $200 or more.

Members of the Stillwater Bed & Breakfast Association are the 1890 William Sauntry Mansion, 800-828-2653; the 1878 Ann Bean Mansion, 651-430-0355; the 1892 Aurora Staples Inn, 651-1187; the 1883 Elephant Walk, 888-430-0359; and the 1895 Lady Goodwood.

The Water Street Inn is on the riverfront by the Lift Bridge, 651-439-6000. The Lowell Inn is at Myrtle and North Second Street, 651-439-1100.

There are many less-expensive lodgings off Minnesota 36, including the Holiday Inn Express, 651-275-1401; Country Inn & Suites, 651-430-2699; and Super 8, 651-430-3990.

Dining: On a beautiful summer day, you'll want to eat outside.

The Dock Café on the river is irresistible, 651-430-3770, as is the big patio of the 1883 Freight House, 651-439-5718.

Restaurants on Main Street include Luna Rossa Trattoria and Wine Bar, 651-430-0560, and Marx Fusion Bistro, 651-439-8333.

Leo's Grill & Malt Shop is a good place to have lunch with kids. For a picnic, pick up sandwiches from the River Market deli at 221 N. Main St., and take them up North Second Street to Pioneer Park.

Shopping: Main Street is lined with interesting shops, many selling antiques, gifts and home decor. For more, see Bargain-hunting in Stillwater.

Trolley tours: The Stillwater Trolley Co. offers 45-minute narrated tours daily from May through October, hourly from 10 a.m. on weekends and at 11 a.m and 1, 2, 3:30 and 5 p.m. weekdays.

Tours also are given on nice weekends in April and November. Fare is $14, $7 for children 17 and younger. Trolleys leave from behind the Freight House Restaurant. 651-430-0352.

Boat tours: The St. Croix Boat & Packet Co. gives public lunch and dinner cruises on four paddlewheelers, 651-430-1234.

Gondola tours: Gondola Romantica gondoliers row passengers along the St. Croix in a real Venetian gondola.

Wine tour: Northern Vineyards on Main Street offers daily tastings that cost $5, refundable with purchase. Pick up a picnic at River Market deli next door and have it with wine on the deck, which overlooks the river. 651-430-1032.

Information: Stillwater tourism, 651-351-1717.

Last updated on December 31, 2012