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Minneapolis' Chain of Lakes

The lakes, river and creeks that ring this metropolis are a magnet all year round.

Every big city has skyscrapers. Every big city has museums and monuments. But no other city has as many beautiful lakes and parks Minneapolis does.

Early in the city's history, when its lakes still were considered swampy boondocks, city fathers decided to make their shores public property. Today, the most expensive homes in the city face the lakes, but the public — in-line skaters, bicyclists, dog-walkers — owns the shorelines.

In the summer, everyone who isn't working flocks to the lakes to canoe, sail, skate, swim and picnic. Concerts are held nearly every evening at the lovely Lake Harriet bandshell, and neighborhood festivals and theater performances are held in lakeside parks. During Aquatennial in July, the lakes become the setting for dozens of events, including sand-castle competitions, milk-carton boat races and regattas.

Paved paths — one for walking, one for bicycling and skating — link the lakes, looping around the four biggest lakes and extending across the city and up along both sides of the Mississippi River. They're hugely popular with runners and walkers, who can be found on them all year-round.

These paths now are part of the Grand Rounds National Scenic Byway, which includes 50 miles of trails. To make shorter loops, bicyclists can use the Midtown Greenway, which cuts straight across south Minneapolis (see Biking in Minneapolis).

The most scenic stretches are in the southern part of the city, around Lake of the Isles, Calhoun and Harriet, and up the Mississippi River to the east end of Franklin Avenue. This route also is the first 19 miles of the Twin Cities Marathon, called the most beautiful urban marathon in America.

Lake of the Isles can be found at the west end of Franklin Avenue. The most baronial houses are found here, along with the most geese and other wildlife; there are no beaches, but two islands serve as wildlife refuges, and there's an ice rink in winter.

Canoeists can put in on Lake of the Isles and navigate a shady little canal to Cedar Lake, which has beaches on three sides. Hidden Beach, on the east, is three blocks from the big Victorian known as the Mary Tyler Moore house, on the southwest corner of Kenwood Parkway and West 21st Street.

Lake Street passes between Lake of the Isles and Lake Calhoun and heralds the Uptown neighborhood, just to the east. Bikes can be rented here, and every kind of snack found  — smoothies, ice cream, cappuccino. It's also a shopping and restaurant center, especially for young people, and is the liveliest neighborhood in the city both day and night.

Lake Calhoun has three beaches and the most open expanses; it's often used for windsurfing and sailing. It connects to Lake Harriet, the prettiest and most family-oriented lake; a vintage streetcar also connects the two lakes.

Around Harriet, the Rose Garden is a favorite spot, as well as the two beaches, the bandshell and playground just beyond it.

For a pleasant detour, venture two blocks from the western side of Lake Harriet to the little shops and cafes of the Linden Hills neighborhood, at the corner of Upton Avenue and West 43rd Street.

Then continue around Lake Harriet to Minnehaha Creek, which the path follows to Lake Nokomis. This lake has a big, broad beach, with an up-close view of planes going to and from the airport. Hiawatha Lake, across the parkway, has a smaller beach.

It's not far to Minnehaha Park, whose thundering falls have been a tourist attraction since the city's birth. Footpaths wind through the gorge at the foot of the falls, following the creek to its meeting with the Mississippi.

The path continues along the river, as it flows upstream to the falls of St. Anthony. The campus of the University of Minnesota straddles the river north of the Franklin Bridge; the Weisman Art Museum, a fractured silver pile on the east side of the river, is worth a stop.

From there, it's not far to James J. Hill's Stone Arch Bridge, where the city started. For more, see On the river in Minneapolis.

Trip Tips: Chain of Lakes in Minneapolis

Touring: On weekends, the paths can get crowded. Bicycle paths are one-way, which cuts down on congestion. For more about bicycling in and from the city, see Bicycling around the Twin Cities.

Bike rental: In Minnehaha Park, Wheel Fun rents bicycles and surreys for up to four people. It's open daily from Memorial Day to Labor Day, weekends in May, September and October.

A block from Lake Calhoun, on West Lake Street, Calhoun Bike Rental rents bikes, 612-827-8231.

Boat rental: Canoes, kayaks and paddleboats are available at Lake Calhoun and Lake Harriet, daily from Memorial Day to Labor Day and weekends in September and October.

Beaches: There are three on Cedar and Calhoun lakes, two on Harriet and Nokomis Lakes and one on Hiawatha and Wirth lakes.

Free concerts: Free concerts are given nearly every summer evening at the Lake Harriet bandshell, usually at 7:30 p.m., on Sundays at 2 and 5:30 p.m.

Concerts are given many events in Minnehaha Park, including a bluegrass festival on Labor Day.

Trolley ride: The Como-Harriet Streetcar takes 15-minute runs from Lake Harriet, near the bandshell at Queen Avenue and West 42nd Street, to Lake Calhoun daily from mid-May through Labor Day, 6:30-8:30 p.m., and weekends and holidays 12:30-8:30 p.m. from May through September. Round-trip fare is $2.

Events: Aquatennial, the 10 days around the third week of July. Uptown Art Fair, first full weekend in August. Twin Cities Marathon, first Sunday in October.

Dining: In Uptown, Figlio has great people-watching from sidewalk tables. Chino Latino is the noisiest and most eye-popping of all, with a "south of the equator'' menu. Lucia's, on 31st Street, is the spot for a more romantic dinner.

In Linden Hills, Zumbro Café, at West 43rd Street and Sheridan, is a good spot for breakfast and lunch.

In the 1905 refectory in Minnehaha Park, Sea Salt Eatery serves inexpensive seafood, such as soft-shelled crab sandwiches and oyster po' boys. It's open daily for lunch and dinner, 612-721-8990.

On the beach on the north end of Lake Nokomis, the concessionaire serves ice cream and snacks. (Watch for it; the main bike trail passes a block away.)

At the refectory on Lake Calhoun, Tin Fish serves smoothies and ice cream as well as quesadillas, burgers and seafood tacos, chowders, sandwiches and platters. It's open daily for lunch and dinner.

At East Lake Street and West River Parkway, at the Minneapolis end of the Lake-Marshall Bridge, the Longfellow Grill specializes in elaborate burgers but has all kinds of fun food. It's open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

Nightlife: At Uptown and Hennepin, Famous Dave's BBQ and Blues features live blues nightly.

Information: Minneapolis Parks and Recreation.

Last updated on August 19, 2009