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12 great fall hikes

For a perfect day, hit the trail and do some sightseeing, too.

Hikers on Cut Lake Trail near Pine River.

© Beth Gauper

Hikers head onto the Bull Moose loop of Cut Lake Trail near Pine River, Minn.

A fall Saturday dawns, sunny and mild. It’s a perfect day for hiking — but where?

One  fall, I looked beyond the usual northwoods favorites: Minnesota's North Shore, the many marquee trails along Wisconsin's Ice Age National Scenic Trail; Michigan's Escarpment Trail in Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park.

They’re spectacular, but some of the best trails are found in less obvious places — in state forests, wildlife refuges, prairie, even towns. So I got out my map and picked Governor Knowles State Forest, on the Wisconsin side of the St. Croix River.

That's how I discovered the Sandrock Cliffs Trail. It was across Wisconsin 70 in the St. Croix National Scenic Riverway, and it was a knockout, winding through red and white pines on a narrow river terrace covered with tawny needles.

Since I like a little variety on excursions, I also visited Crex Meadows, a wildlife refuge two miles to the east in Grantsburg, and the North West Co. Fur Post, a fun historical site 20 miles to the west in Pine City.

Now Sandrock Cliffs is one of my favorite trails. Here are 12 great fall hikes, along with nearby festivities and attractions that add color to a fall day whether the leaves are turning or not.

Sandrock Cliffs Trail in Wisconsin's St. Croix National Scenic Riverway

It’s a scenic five-mile loop along the Wisconsin side of the St. Croix River, with river views from a pine and hardwood forest. When we were there, other hikers had recorded bear sightings in the log book. It’s just off Wisconsin 70, near Grantsburg, Wis.

What to do nearby: Visit the North West Co. Fur Post, a mile west of Pine City; Forts Folle Avoine fur post, northwest of Webster (Dagwaagin Gabeshi fall encampment, Oct. 4-5); and Crex Meadows, just north of Grantsburg (Wildlife Festival, Oct. 5).

Phelps Park and Oneota trails in Decorah, Iowa

This college town in northeast Iowa bluff has a picturesque setting, framed by bluffs. From Phelps Park, a one-mile trail follows the blufftop above the Upper Iowa River, with limestone steps and terraces built by the CCC. Below, the 2½-mile Oneota Recreation Trail follows the river; it's becoming part of the 12-mile Trout Run Trail, which will circle the town.

Getting there: From Water Street downtown, take Mechanic Street to Phelps Park and Main Street to the Oneota parking lot.

What to do nearby: Visit Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum in Decorah and surrounding studios during the big Northeast Iowa Artists Studio Tour, Oct. 11-12. In nearby Spillville, visit the Bily Clocks Museum.

Inspiration Peak near Alexandria, Minn.

This wildflower-covered hill is a kame, a pile of rubble deposited by a retreating glacier. It's one of the highest points in the state, rising 400 feet above the surrounding countryside, glacial moraine that features dozens of lakes that Sinclair Lewis famously likened to "sequins fallen on an old paisley shawl.'' A short but steep paved trail leads to the top.

Getting there: Take I-94 to the Brandon exit, just west of Alexandria, and head north on Minnesota 7.

What to do nearby: For more hiking, hit the trails at Lake Carlos State Park. Drive the 150-mile Otter Trail Scenic Byway, featuring Phelps Mill, Maplewood and Glendalough state parks and the quirky sculpture town of Vining. Bicycle the Central Lakes Trail between Osakis and Fergus Falls.

Congdon Park, Park Point and Western Waterfront trails, Duluth

Duluth is an excellent walking town, even without the new segments of the Superior Hiking Trail. On the three-mile Congdon Park Trail, up and down a creek ravine in East Duluth, you'd never know you're in a city. The four-mile Park Point Trail goes over sand dunes and through pine forest to the Superior entry to the harbor. The five-mile Western Waterfront Trail follows the St. Louis River estuary in West Duluth. (For more, see Duluth walks.)

Getting there: The Congdon Park Trail starts off Superior Street at 32nd Avenue East; Park Point Trail starts from the airport at the end of the road on Park Point, across from the Aerial Lift Bridge; Western Waterfront starts across from the Lake Superior Zoo at Grand Avenue and 72nd Avenue West and off Grand on Fremont Avenue (first stretch is paved).

What to do nearby: In Duluth, watch the arrivals and departures of boats, drive along Skyline Parkway, watch raptors from Hawk Ridge, tour the haunted William Irvin ore boat or see Barton Sutter and Marya Hart's "Bushed: A Poetical, Political, Partly Musical Tragicomedy in Two Acts'' at the new Rubber Chicken Theater, Oct. 2-4, 9-11 and 16-18.

St. Peter's Dome and Morgan Falls in northwest Wisconsin

St. Peter's Dome is a bald granite outcropping with a spectacular view of Chequamegon National Forest treetops. But this trail also includes Morgan Falls, a 70- to 100-foot flume that's just half a mile from the trailhead. From there, it's another 1.2 miles, uphill on rocky terrain, to the overlook.

Getting there: It's south of Ashland and east of Grand View. From U.S. 63, 5½ miles north of Grand View, take County Road E six miles east. Turn south at the county line and take the gravel Ashland-Bayfield Road 4½ miles to the trailhead parking lot.

What to do nearby: Visit the Northern Great Lakes Visitor Center just west of Ashland. See the murals in Ashland (WhistleStop Festival and Blues & Brews Fest, Oct. 11-12)

Carleton Arboretum in Northfield, Minn.

On the edge of this southern Minnesota college town, the lower part of Carleton College's Cowling Arboretum, or "Arb,'' lies on the floodplain of the Cannon River. Three loops, with 7½ miles of trails, take hikers past oak savanna and prairie being restored by the college.

Getting there: It’s just northeast of town, even walking distance; keep going on Division Street past Carleton’s stadium.

What to do nearby: Shop in Northfield along Division Street (Fall Festival, Oct. 11).

Forest Lodge Nature Trail near Cable, Wis.

The Forest Lodge Nature Trail packs a lot into two miles, leading hikers from a dark hemlock grove to a little bog circled by spruce and, in fall, covered with the tufted white heads of cotton grass. Be sure to use the trail booklet left in a box by the Cable Natural History Museum.

Getting there: Take County Road M nine miles east of Cable and turn onto Garmisch Road.

What to do nearby: Visit Cable (Fall Festival, Sept. 26-27) and its Natural History Museum.

Barn Bluff in Red Wing, Minn.

This is the big, boxy bluff on the south edge of Red Wing, on the Mississippi River. There’s a two-mile loop along the north face to an overlook of town and back along the south face. On top, a dead-end trail provides sweeping views south toward Lake Pepin. (For six other hikes with views, see King of the hill.)

Getting there: Take East Fifth Street through town to the foot of the bluff.

What to do nearby: See the arrivals and departures of the American Queen (Oct. 3 and 17); go to the Fall Festival of Arts, Oct. 11-12.

Geneva Lake in southeast Wisconsin

This definitely isn't wilderness, or even forest, but there will be fall colors. Lake Geneva is a vacation community on Geneva Lake, which is circled by a public 21½-mile walking path through the lawns of old-money mansions. It's a treat at any time of year. (For more, see Gawking in Lake Geneva.)

At least two hiking clubs are planning to hike the whole thing this fall: the Forest Trails Hiking Club of Chicago, Oct. 4, and the Wisconsin Go Hiking Club of Milwaukee, Oct. 11.

What to do nearby: Visit the town of Lake Geneva (Oktoberfest, Oct. 11-12).

Flandrau State Park in New Ulm, Minn.

The Cottonwood River flows through this prairie park in southwest Minnesota, whose terrain varies from marshes to goat prairies. The 8½ miles of trails take hikers from river bottoms to bluffs lined by oaks.

Getting there: Flandrau State Park is on the southwest edge of town, adjoining Schell Brewery. Take Broadway to 10th Street South up the hill to Summit Avenue and turn south.

What to do nearby: In New Ulm, tour Schell Brewery and partake in Oktoberfest Oct. 3-4 and Oct. 10-11. Eight miles east of New Ulm, visit Morgan Creek Vineyards (Grape Stomp, Oct. 4).

Cut Lake Trail near Pine River, Minn.

In fall, everyone ditches Minnesota's lake country in favor of the North Shore. But the leaf color is beautiful and, because it's varied, lasts longer. In Foot Hills State Forest, west of Pine River (and the Paul Bunyan State Trail), the Cut Lake Trail has 10 miles of hiking loops through a rolling forest of Norway pine, birch and tawny oaks.

Getting there: From Minnesota 371 in Pine River, head 10 miles west on County Road 2.

What to do nearby: Go horseback-riding at the nearby Pine River Riding Stable. Ride the Paul Bunyan State Trail. Drive the 54-mile Paul Bunyan Scenic Byway.

Kruger Trail in Dorer State Forest near Wabasha, Minn.

In the Mississippi River Valley bluffs of southeast Minnesota, R.J. Dorer Memorial Hardwood State Forest has two- and five-mile loops, each with overlooks of the oxbow loops of the Zumbro River. For wheelchair users, there's the half-mile Easy Wheeling Nature Trail.

Getting there: Take U.S. 61 to Minnesota 60, just south of Wabasha, then four miles to County Road 81.

What to do nearby: Visit the National Eagle Center in Wabasha.
Last updated on November 1, 2008

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