Other stories in "Skiing, cross-country"

• Itasca in winter
  From cozy hostel, guests ski out the door onto park trails.
• Heirs to a hideaway
  High above Minnesota's North Shore, a spot at Tettegouche Camp is as prized as ever.
• Happy days at Maplelag
  Winter is as good as it gets at a friendly cross-country ski resort in western Minnesota.
• Full throttle in Eagle River
  Around this snowy Wisconsin town, there's a trail for everyone.
• Skiing in Duluth
  When snow falls, skiers fly onto a splendid system of trails.
• Winter is Washburn's time to glow
  Frozen lake opens up wonders that can't be reached in summer.
• Winona with snow
  Snowstorms that blanket the southern woods bring skiers with them.
• Adventure on the Gunflint Trail
  For outdoorsy folks, Minnesota wilderness is a year-round playground.
• The best days of winter
  On the Gunflint Trail, skiers find snow that sparkles into April.
• Playtime in Ely
  At the edge of the wilderness, fun starts when the snow falls.
• Snow asylum
  In the wilderness of northeast Wisconsin, a family resort stays on top of the heap.
• A Giant advantage
  For novice skiers, Iron Range resort rolls out the red carpet.

Skiing the North Shore

On snow-laden hills, skiers glide on cloud nine.

On the North Shore, it’s a happy day when snow is as abundant as scenery.

Despite its miles of cross-country ski trails, the western shore of Lake Superior gets only modest amounts of lake-effect snow, because the storms that do blow in from the east tend to dump it inland, where the land mass is colder.

But we go, even if we have to hike instead of ski. We love to be on the North Shore, near moody Lake Superior and its dramatic, ice-draped river gorges.

The North Shore had been suffering a snow drought when Torsten and I drove up  after New Year's four years ago. So when we saw a few flakes turn into real snow, it seemed like manna from heaven.

We grabbed our skis and headed up the Sawbill Trail from Tofte to the Britton Peak trailhead, from which the Sugarbush Trail Association maintains 69 kilometers of trails. We glided along, marveling at the beauty of the new snow, draped so picturesquely on bough and bush.

But under the new fluff lay the old lumps and ice. So after skiing the Piece of Cake loop, we drove farther up the Sawbill Trail to the Moose Fence trailhead.

The Maple Loop was in much better shape, and we were able to turn our attention to the lovely tableaux in the forest and to the trees ahead, from which clumps of snow occasionally exploded over the trail. Gliding along on snowy lanes crowded by spruce and fir, we didn’t even notice we were working.

After hot chocolate at the Coho Café in Tofte, we decided to squeeze a hike into the waning afternoon. Unbroken snow covered the Cauldron Trail along the Temperance River, making forays to the gorge’s edge highly unwise, but we got as close as we could, looking down the narrow rock walls at the dark water.

The next morning the snow was falling in wet little round balls, not the lacy crystals of the previous day. We decided to drive farther inland to the National Forest Lodge near Isabella.

At the lodge, proprietor Mark Wendt was preparing lunch for his guests.

 “The North Shore is very fond of sending people up here to ski,’’  he said wryly. “They love to use the trails.’’ But that’s fine, he says, because the Flathorn-Gegoka system, which he maintains, is supported by state ski-pass revenues and the U.S. Forest Service.

From his window-lined lodge, we could see skiers begin to emerge from the woods on the other side of Lake Gegoka.  The 30-kilometer all-classical system is entirely within Superior National Forest, away from snowmobile trails.

It’s  lovely and remote;  on that overcast day, it was a duotone world of green and white, and I felt as if I was skiing through an overgrown Christmas-tree farm until I emerged onto a marsh, tawny cattails waving on its edges. When I stopped to examine fresh wolf tracks crossing the trail — and cautiously look around — I heard bird calls echoing through the silent forest.

We left an hour before dark, hoping to avoid an unpleasant encounter with any half-ton moose that might be loitering along Minnesota 1, as they tend to do. Snow was still falling, and along Minnesota 1 people were plowing their driveways. But by Two Harbors, signs of the snowfall had faded away, and as we neared the Twin Cities we saw only familiar gray and brown.

That's why people drive four hours to the North Shore. And in the last few years, snow has been plentiful. Go now, while the snow gods are smiling.

Trip Tips: Skiing the North Shore

Trail conditions: Check www.sugarbushtrail.org and www.northshoreskitrail.com; reports from skiers can be found at www.skinnyski.com. Resort proprietors have maps and, usually, up-to-date information on the best trails to ski each day.

Trail fee:  A Great Minnesota Ski Pass, which costs $15 yearly or $40 for three years, is required for skiers 16 and older.  It’s available at the Holiday Station in Tofte, the Clearview Store in Lutsen and sports shops around the state or can be purchased by mail or on-line at www.dnr.state.mn.us, 651-296-6157 or 1-888-646-6367.

Trails:  The Sugarbush system between Tofte and Lutsen has 69 kilometers of classical and skating trails groomed by Pisten Bully. Many people like the 3-kilometer Tofte Ski-down, a gradual downhill from the Britton Peak trailhead to Sawtooth Outfitters/Bluefin Bay; there’s also a 4-kilometer ski-down from the Oberg Mountain loop to the golf-course loops at Lutsen Resort. The Homestead Loop, a 12-kilometer intermediate ski from Britton Peak, has views of the lake. For more challenge, ski the 25 kilometers from Moose Fence to Minnesota 61.

The all-classical Cascade River-Deer Yard Lake system between Lutsen and Grand Marais has trails on both sides of the Cascade River; the western section, maintained by Cascade Lodge with a Pisten Bully, is better-groomed than the section in Cascade River State Park. The lodge, 1-800-322-9543, www.cascadelodgemn.com, charges $3.50 for non-guest parking.

Pincushion Mountain, three miles up the Gunflint Trail from Grand Marais, has 23 kilometers of trails tracked and groomed for striding and skating, with a public warming house and a 1.3-kilometer trail that's lighted most nights; a $3 donation is encouraged. Ski out the door from Pincushion Mountain B&B, 800- 542-1226, www.pincushionbb.com.

There’s skiing in the state parks, but don’t expect great grooming.

Lighted skiing: The nine kilometers of the Erkki Harju Ski Trail in Two Harbors  includes a very nice, easy three-kilometer loop that's lighted. Donations help the local ski club maintain it. It's less than a mile from Minnesota 61, off County Road 2.

Candlelight skiing: In mid-February, the Sugarbush Trail Association holds a  ski on its system near Tofte, and Gooseberry Falls State Park holds a ski, snowshoe and walk.

Equipment rental: Sawtooth Outfitters in Tofte rents classic and skate skis,  218-663-7643, www.sawtoothoutfitters.com.

Trail shuttle: Many resorts offer shuttles to trailheads; ask when reserving. Sawtooth Outfitters also offers a shuttle from its shop.

Accommodations: Reserve early for weekends and remember, cross-country skiers who want to stay in the Lutsen area compete for lodgings with downhill skiers.

Bluefin Bay in Tofte offers its guests frequent shuttles to Sugarbush trailheads and guided ski tours on weekends. It has many kinds of units, from standard with hillside view to luxury suites with whirlpool and fireplace; its biggest assets are lake views, from its rooms and also from a large outdoor hot tub that is shielded from wind by a glass wall, an outdoor pool and a sauna. There's also an indoor pool complex. 1-800-258-3346, and look for specials at www.bluefinbay.com.

The Americinn in Silver Bay, 29 miles from Tofte and 15 miles from the frozen waterfalls at Gooseberry Falls State Park, would be a good base for skiers with children; it has a 110-foot spiral water slide and rates include breakfast with waffle bar. 1-218-226-4300, www.americinnsilverbay.com.

The Stone Hearth Inn in Little Marais is one of the nicest B&Bs on the North Shore. Seven attractive rooms and a suite, two with whirlpools, in the inn, boathouse and carriage house. 888-206-3020, www.stonehearthinn.com.

Cove Point Lodge in Beaver Bay, 33 miles from Tofte, is an attractive lodge on the lakeshore and within 10 miles of Gooseberry, Split Rock and Tettegouche state parks. It also has cottages. 800-598-3221, www.covepointlodge.com.

Skiing elsewhere: The Flathorn-Gegoka trails, 30 miles up Minnesota 1 from Minnesota 61, have reliable snow cover all season. They’re maintained by Mark Wendt of National Forest Lodge, which has out-the-door access. Lodging rates include three meals a day. There’s a wood-fired sauna and large outdoor hot tub. 218-323-7676, www.nationalforestlodge.com. Public access is half a mile from the junction of Minnesota 1 and Sand Lake Road (watch for the Knotty Pine Inn).

Information: The handy new guide "Skiing the North Shore,'' by Andrew Slade ($15.95) has maps and all the information you need to find the best trails.

For Lutsen-Tofte tourism  information, 1-888-626-6784, www.americasnorthcoast.org.

Last updated on January 17, 2008