MidwestWeekends.com — Your Travel Guide to the Upper Midwest

Waterfalls

Waterfalls by snowshoe

On the Black River in Upper Michigan, see a kaleidoscope of water and ice.

On the western tip of the Upper Peninsula, snow comes as regularly as mail.

Gusts of wind make the deliveries, picking up moisture and warmth over Lake Superior and then dumping it as snow when they hit the cold inland air around Ironwood and Bessemer.

The two ski towns are little more than four hours from the Twin Cities, but they look more like the North Pole in comparison. Snow comes early, piles high and stays late, into April.

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Gooseberries on ice

In winter, the beloved North Shore waterfalls turn into a big, frozen playground.

There's one spot along the North Shore at which everyone has to stop.

Its five falls tumble over lumpy floes of ancient lava, filling the air with mist and tumult. Intriguing crannies, created by jagged walls of rock and twisted cedars, turn adults into compulsive shutterbugs and bring out the Indiana Jones in children, who clamber from one precipice to another.

This is Gooseberry Falls State Park, the most-visited state park in Minnesota outside of Fort Snelling.

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Waterfalls of northeast Wisconsin

Wild rivers and cascades reward those who explore the remote forests around Marinette.

In a remote corner of Wisconsin, a trove of waterfalls lies buried in forests barely trod since the lumberjacks moved on to Minnesota.

They’re not Wisconsin’s largest waterfalls, or the easiest to find; those can be found on the lower lip of Lake Superior, in Pattison, Amnicon and Copper Falls state parks (See Waterfalls of northern Wisconsin). But there are lots of them in this undomesticated forest, so thick with headwaters it’s known as the cradle of rivers.

When the last glacier scraped through, it left a rocky landscape nicked by small lakes and veined by streams. Today, it’s Nicolet National Forest, 657,000 acres forsaken by the lumber barons, acquired by the federal government during the Depression, overgrown with hardwoods and now the domain of whitewater rafters, canoeists and fishermen.

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Waterfalls of northern Wisconsin

Roaring cascades are remnants of the last Ice Age.

Deep in the forests of Wisconsin, and Potato River Falls was nowhere to be found.

A sign pointed to an observation deck, from which I glimpsed a bridal-veil falls in the distance. But the path down the Potato River led only to a cobblestone beach.

Finally, I left the path to climb down a steep hillside, slippery with clay and choked with the roots of spruce trees that flecked my hands with sap.

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