Other stories in "Lighthouses"

• Kayaking the Rossport Islands
  Off Ontario's Superior coast, a lighthouse is an irresistible destination.
• Cruising to a lighthouse
  In summer, boats give visitors a chance to see historic beacons.
• 5 great/Wisconsin lighthouses
  On Wisconsin's two Great Lakes, beacons attract lovers of lore.
• The Lighthouse Express
  A vintage railroad takes passengers back to the past.
• Living in a lighthouse
  The first keepers were ready to assist and rescue. Now, volunteers are returning the favor.
• Circling Superior
  A trip around the big lake provides everything a tourist's heart could desire.
• Dwelling in the past
  Around Lake Superior, overnight guests can try out life at a lighthouse.

Lighthouses of the Apostles

Allure of a bygone lifestyle pulls visitors to island beacons.

A century ago, in the Apostle Islands, only seven puny shafts of light stood between sailors and catastrophe.

Lake Superior has been called the most dangerous body of water in the world, an inland teakettle in which any tempest can be deadly. Storms gather fury over 200 miles of open water, and heaven help mariners caught between wind and rock — heaven, or a lighthouse keeper with sharp eyes.

During a ferocious storm in September 1905, Outer Island lighthouse keeper John Irvine saw a lifeboat leave the foundering schooner Pretoria and then capsize offshore; five men drowned, but the 60-year-old keeper was able to pull the remaining five ashore.

In the same storm, Sand Island keeper Emmanuel Luick had to watch, helpless, as a life raft from the ore freighter Sevona broke up 100 yards from Justice Bay, just south of the lighthouse. All seven men drowned,and Luick spent the next month rounding up the bodies.

Tales of these early lighthouses and their keepers, who often risked death themselves, still have rapt audiences on Wisconsin’s Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. The 21 islands, off Wisconsin’s Bayfield Peninsula, has the greatest concentration of National Park Service lighthouses in the nation.

Visitors arrive in kayaks, sailboats or cruise boats out of Bayfield, eager to see these 19th-century anachronisms. Long after radar and electricity made manned lighthouses obsolete, they still have a grip on modern-day imaginations.

“I like the stories behind them — the rugged way of life, the isolation, the romance of it — though it probably wasn’t that romantic,’’ says Kae Lance of Brooklyn Park, who visited the light stations on Michigan, Sand and Raspberry islands during one of the annual Apostle Islands Lighthouse Celebrations. “And the views are beautiful.’’

Life in a lighthouse, while sometimes dramatic, was hardly romantic. Emmanuel Luick, who served as keeper on Sand Island from 1892 to 1921, married 16-year-old Ella Richardson in 1896; though she proved able and eventually was made assistant keeper, she left the island one day in 1905 and never returned.

Anna Marie Carlson was a young bride in the winter of 1893, when her husband, the head keeper, disappeared with his brother after a storm arose as they fished. Speaking of the ordeal during a 1931 interview, Anna Marie said, “Women who sit in brightly lighted cities with people all around, within call of the voice, have no conception what it is to sit and wait for your man on a deserted island, with snow and ice everywhere and no light but the stars.’’

For three nights, she worried, left alone with her toddler and two infants. On the fourth day, her husband, Robert, returned, afraid she’d killed herself and the children. He and his brother had drifted on an ice floe to Madeline Island, where they’d jumped to shore, found an old boat, repaired it and rowed, frostbitten, the eight miles back to Michigan Island.

Robert Carlson’s sister, Cecilia McLean, was wife of the Raspberry Island keeper and spent 30 years on isolated Lake Superior islands: “I hate lighthouses,’’ she said later. “If I had my life to live over again, it would not be in light stations.’’

There are eight lighthouses on six islands, two of them retired. Park-service rangers give tours of the Raspberry Island light, and the Apostle Islands Cruise Service in Bayfield offers daily cruises to it in summer.

The lights on Sand, Devils and Michigan islands are staffed by volunteers, who give tours to tourists who get there in their own boats. Outer Island has been staffed but now is closed because its banks have eroded. The two lights on Long Island can't be toured, but visitors can explore the grounds.

During the Lighthouse Celebration in September, the Apostle Islands Cruise Service schedules trips to Sand, Devils, Long and Michigan islands as well as Raspberry, though places on the boats go fast.

Michigan Island has two lighthouses, and one September, I hopped a boat over and toured them. Maryland volunteer Bill Hibbard met us, apologizing for the clouds of mosquitoes that swarmed over the island.

The light station, he said, had a curious history: It was first to be built but was abandoned after a year of service, in 1858, when a federal inspector arrived and announced it should have been built on Long Island. The contractor, consulting local mariners, apparently had decided a light on Michigan made more sense, but its light was extinguished, and he was forced to build on Long.

In 1869, however, the Michigan Island lighthouse was reactivated and used until 1929, when it was retired and a new light placed atop a 112-foot steel tower next door. Today, visitors can climb both structures.

“Feel free to yodel as you go up,’’ Hibbard said as visitors climbed the tower. “It’s kind of like a giant organ pipe. I’m a bass, so it’s fun; my choir master would never believe it.’’

Lighthouse aficionado Naomi Bagley of Oakdale was among the Michigan Island group; that summer, she’d also been to lighthouses in Virginia and Massachusetts, and she’s seen lighthouses in the Carolinas, Oregon, Washington, California and, her favorite, Michigan.

“I’ve been in and out of about 70 lighthouses,’’ she said. “Whenever I want to go somewhere, I plan around them. I just get on the Internet and see what lighthouses there are.’’

Erected between 1856 and 1929, each lighthouse is different. The 1881 Norman Gothic lighthouse on Sand Island, made of locally quarried brownstone, is reached by a two-mile trail lined by thimbleberries and an antique jalopy rusting in the woods. The 1862 Raspberry Island lighthouse has a vintage garden.

And because 400 acres around each lighthouse was reserved for the use of the keeper — on Devils and Raspberry, the whole island was reserved — the scenery around each lighthouse includes spectacular stands of old-growth white pine and hemlock.

“Oddly enough, these symbols of civilization ended up actually protecting the largest tracts of unlogged forest in the Upper Midwest,’’ says chief of planning Jim Nepstad.

Big or small, old or newer, each lighthouse has its fans.

“Up here, they’re all unique,’’ Nepstad said. “They all have a unique personality.’’

Trip Tips: Apostle Islands lighthouses

Cruises: The tour to Raspberry Island is given 8:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. daily June 14 through Sept. 1, $40, $24 children 6-12. Other cruises pass the lights on Devils and Sand but don't stop. Reserve at 800-323-7619, www.apostleisland.com.

Lighthouse Celebration: It's Sept. 3-20 in 2008. To ensure a seat on cruises, reserve as soon as possible at 800-779-4487, www.lighthousecelebration.com. The festival also includes a Keeper's Reunion Day Dinner Sept. 12 and talks at the park-service headquarters Sept. 8, 11, 15 and 18.

Apostle Islands National Lakeshore: The headquarters is in Bayfield at Washington Avenue and Fourth Street, 715-779-3397, www.nps.gov/apis.

Accommodations: The Bayfield Inn, overlooking the marina next to the cruise-service dock, is a good bet, 800-382-0995, www.thebayfieldinn.com. Harbor’s Edge Motel is just down the street, across from the ferry landing, with rooms that are a little cheaper, 715-779-3962, www.harborsedgemotel.com. Ship’s Quarters, four blocks from the dock, has three attractive suites and an apartment, 715-779-9622, www.shipsquarters.com.

A mile north of town off Wisconsin 13, the Island View Inn and Cottages is a particularly nice place for families. Two very comfortable suites have private entrance, bedroom, kitchenette, living room with sofa sleeper and VCR, sand beach on Lake Superior, playground and swings. Breakfast is brought to the door. There are also three cottages, 888-309-5307, www.islandviewbandb.com.

Information: Bayfield, 800-447-4094, www.bayfield.org.

Last updated on July 14, 2008