MidwestWeekends.com — Your Travel Guide to the Upper Midwest
free newsletter image

Lighthouses

Cruising to a lighthouse

In summer, boats give visitors a chance to see historic beacons.

Many people turn lighthouses into a hobby. In summer, they travel from beacon to beacon, photographing them and collecting stamps in their U.S. Lighthouse Society passports until they've got 60 and can move onto the next passport and, eventually, the "Platinum Circle'' patch awarded after 240 lighthouse visits.

It's not easy to get to every lighthouse, however. Many are on islands or inaccessible by car, so aficionados are quick to sign up for the special boat trips offered during lighthouse festivals.

Below are some of the cruises that will take visitors to lights in the western Great Lakes in 2008. On many, places go quickly.

read story and trip tips

Living in a lighthouse

The first keepers were ready to assist and rescue. Now, volunteers are returning the favor.

Around the Great Lakes, love for lighthouses is unlimited. Often called "America's castles,'' lighthouses are symbols of a more adventurous era, and tourists find them irresistible.

"They work their way up the coast seeing all the lighthouses,'' says Ronda Werner of Michigan's Tawas Point Light. "They bring their lighthouse book and want stamps in their passports, and they're all decked out in their lighthouse shirts and their little lighthouse earrings. It's wonderful so many people have this much passion for our lighthouses.''

Now, the state parks and friends associations who care for them have found a way to harness all this passion: They're turning tourists into volunteer keepers. This spring, the 1869 Tawas Point Light on Michigan's Lake Huron coast is taking applications for its first keepers on a sandy spit often called "the Cape Cod of the Midwest.''

read story and trip tips

Circling Superior

A trip around the big lake provides everything a tourist's heart could desire.

Of all the Great Lakes, Superior is the drama queen.

It's unpredictable and petulant, throwing tantrums that threaten to swallow any boat that ventures onto its waters. In 1975, it famously swallowed one that itself was called Queen of the Lakes.

Superior loves irony, it seems. The first recorded wreck, in 1816, was called the Invincible.

read story and trip tips

Dwelling in the past

Around Lake Superior, overnight guests can try out life at a lighthouse.

When Lake Superior lighthouses had keepers, there was nothing romantic about life there.

The posts were cold, lonely and meagerly furnished on the government dime. The work was physically taxing and repetitive. Through the long nights, keepers had to get up every two hours to wind the mechanism that rotated the lens.

It's no wonder many of the early lighthouse keepers were hermits or grouches.

read story and trip tips

Kayaking the Rossport Islands

Off Ontario's Superior coast, a lighthouse is an irresistible destination.

At the top of Lake Superior, there's a dramatic coast lined with rugged cliffs, cobblestone beaches and islands.

It's the home of Parks Canada's new Lake Superior National Marine Conservation Area, created last October to protect the waters between the Sibley Peninsula, east of Thunder Bay, and the Slate Islands, off Terrace Bay.

The many islands are big, much like the Apostles in Wisconsin except closer together. That makes them ideal for kayaking. The Slate archipelago, where caribou live, attracts serious kayakers. But the Rossport Islands are perfect for any paddler.

read story and trip tips

Lighthouses of the Apostles

Allure of a bygone lifestyle pulls visitors to island beacons.

A century ago, in the Apostle Islands, only seven puny shafts of light stood between sailors and catastrophe.

Lake Superior has been called the most dangerous body of water in the world, an inland teakettle in which any tempest can be deadly. Storms gather fury over 200 miles of open water, and heaven help mariners caught between wind and rock — heaven, or a lighthouse keeper with sharp eyes.

During a ferocious storm in September 1905, Outer Island lighthouse keeper John Irvine saw a lifeboat leave the foundering schooner Pretoria and then capsize offshore; five men drowned, but the 60-year-old keeper was able to pull the remaining five ashore.

read story and trip tips

The Lighthouse Express

A vintage railroad takes passengers back to the past.

Once, passenger trains crisscrossed the state, and lighthouses guided sailors on the Great Lakes.

Trains and lighthouses are beloved relics now, symbols of a simpler past. In the iPod era, they seem antique, like Grandpa's buggy or Grandma's butter churn.

But don't relegate them to history's dustbin just yet.

read story and trip tips

Romantic beacons

On Wisconsin's two Great Lakes, five beacons attract lovers of lore.

Lucky Wisconsin — it has not one Great Lake, but two.

That means it's got lots of scenic coastline, lined with cliffs, beaches, islands — and lighthouses.

To many, lighthouses are irresistibly romantic. In a harsh environment, they were outposts of civilization, and their keepers often became heroes, saving the lives of shipwrecked sailors.

read story and trip tips