MidwestWeekends.com — Your Travel Guide to the Upper Midwest
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Frontier history

The first American Girl

Before Laura, before Kit, there was Caddie Woodlawn on the Wisconsin frontier.

More than a decade before Laura Ingalls played on the banks of Plum Creek, and 70 years before the fictional Kit Kittredge solved mysteries in Ohio, a girl named Caroline "Caddie'' Woodhouse roamed the Wisconsin wilderness.

To many readers, Caddie was the first and best American Girl.

She came of age during the Civil War and loved the outdoors, gathering hazelnuts in the woods, dodging rattlesnakes on the bluff and poling a log raft on the lake.

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Exploring Thunder Bay

Beauty is all around Lake Superior's biggest town.

To know Thunder Bay is to love Thunder Bay.

Lake Superior's largest town is hard to get to know, though, in part because it was two towns until 1970. No downtown pops out of the landscape; people driving through see only the flat sprawl of Fort William, then the hillier sprawl of Port Arthur.

But Thunder Bay's surroundings are spectacular: Mount McKay on the south, Kakabeka Falls to the west and Ouimet and Eagle canyons to the north.

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Little sod house on the prairie

Life on the frontier wasn't quite as romantic as we think it was.

Sometimes, it comes as a shock to tourists, especially those who grew up watching the TV show "Little House on the Prairie,'' that life on the frontier wasn't all that fun.

Twenty miles east of Walnut Grove, Stan McCone tells it as it was. A farmer, he'd heard stories about the early sod houses. None remained, so he decided to build one of his own, using an old sod cutter.

"There were 13 sod houses in this neighborhood, and those are just the ones we know about,'' he says. ``But with all those, there's zero recollection of them, and I know why — because of all the buried children alongside them. They had such hardship.''

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Hayward's lumberjacks

A northwest Wisconsin resort town keeps a frontier art alive.

One hundred years ago, the white-pine forests around Hayward were the domain of a special breed of man.

They were swampers, sawyers and skidders. They were deckers, chainers, undercutters and riverhogs. They were dwarfed by the colossal trees they had to wrestle out of the forest, and their lives hung on their own brawn, nerve and dumb luck.

Six days a week they worked, dawn to dusk, all winter long. In spring, they'd roar into Hayward for whiskey and wild women; their brawling earned the town a reputation reflected in a train conductor's call: "All aboard for Hayward, Hurley and Hell!''

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Posse on the prairie

In Madelia, the Jesse James Gang met its match — again.

In September 1876, a vicious gang of outlaws came up against some ordinary Minnesotans.

The outlaws came out on the short end. Twice.

The Civil War ended more than a decade before the James-Younger Gang rode into Minnesota. But it was far from over in Missouri, devastated by guerrilla warfare and still simmering with resentment.

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Scenes from the fur trade

At re-created forts, meet the adventurers who shaped the Upper Midwest.

Long before settlers plodded into the Upper Midwest, its rivers and forests were swarming with a more footloose kind of entrepreneur.

The Pilgrims still were getting a toehold on the eastern seaboard when Frenchman Jean Nicollet passed through the Straits of Mackinac on his way to Green Bay, returning to Montreal with news of a vast interior filled with fur-bearing animals.

Traders wasted no time going after the pelts, and international commerce already was brisk by the time people in Salem, Mass., were whipping themselves into a frenzy over imagined witchcraft.

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Grand Portage

Once, a corner of northeast Minnesota was the center of the fur-trade universe.

Long before Minnesota existed, Grand Portage was as familiar a name to many Europeans as George Washington.

As the American Revolution drew to a close in the East, traders at this Lake Superior outpost were busy minting the interior's first millionaires. It was the crossroads of a continent, the place where voyageurs laden with goods from Montreal met voyageurs laden with beaver pelts from the Canadian wilderness.

Then, it was time for Rendezvous, where the French-Canadian paddlers cut loose while their Scottish bosses traded — making money hand over fist for shareholders of the North West Co., one of the first modern corporations.

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Fight club

Thanks to Civil War battle re-enactors, history shows up in the flesh and blood.

It was a gorgeous fall day in southwest Wisconsin, and all we could see was heartache and misery.

"Welcome to Virginia 1862," read the sign at the gates of Norskedalen, where pioneer homesteads evoke the Civil War era.

Pushing open the door of a chinked-timber farmhouse, we encountered Nedda Blodgett, who was surprised to find strangers in her parlor but quickly welcomed us in a Southern drawl.

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