A year of best places
Here are the choicest spots to be during each month of the calendar.
© Beth Gauper
A skier heads onto the trails around Maplelag in northwest Minnesota.
Wouldn't it be great to spend a year enjoying yourself in the 12 best possible places?
Broadcast journalist Charles Kuralt once gave himself that dream assignment: Spend one month apiece in your favorite places in the United States, "at just the right time of the year.''
He devoted July to Ely, the northern-Minnesota gateway to the Boundary Waters Canoe Wilderness Area.
I could spend all 12 months right here, in the Upper Midwest. Here are the places I'd pick.
For more ideas, see 100 best places to vacation.
For trips by season, see Best of spring, Best of summer, Best of fall and Best of winter.
For more, see other Favorite Places stories.
January/A northwoods ski
resort
There's nothing more beautiful than the north woods in winter, when the forest is a cathedral of snow, spruce and sky.
Skiing at this time of year can be a religious experience; the solitude and the stark beauty of the winter landscape seem to induce contemplation and lofty thoughts.
Minnesota, Wisconsin and Michigan are honeycombed with beautiful trails. I'd choose the ones at Maplelag, a one-of-a-kind ski resort in northwest Minnesota that is as beloved for its warmth and hospitality as for its well-groomed trails.
If I still had young children, though, I'd go to Afterglow in northeast Wisconsin, a
family resort where guests get towed up a tubing hill by snowmobile and there's great snowshoeing, too.
February/Madison
Nowhere in the region is there so much to do within two blocks: Stay at the Madison Concourse Hotel. Eat at L'Etoile or
Harvest, two of Madison's best restaurants.
© Beth Gauper
Ice caves form each year on the top of Wisconsin's Bayfield Peninsula.
Visit the Wisconsin Historical Museum and the Veterans Museum. Take a free guided tour of the Capitol. Play in the snow
during Winter Festival on President's Day weekend.
And that's just Capitol Square. Walk a block down State Street and you'll be at the Overture Center for the Arts, which has
seven performing spaces and hosts international artists and Broadway shows as well as the local symphony, opera, theater and
dance troupes.
In late winter, the Overture Center hosts the Madison International Festival, a great place to take the kids.
For a vibrant mix of shops and eateries, just
keep walking down State Street. If you're bored in Madison, you're bored with life.
March/Gunflint Trail and ice caves
When dirty slush clogs the rest of the region, the Gunflint Trail from the northeast tip
of Minnesota still has a sparkling layer of fresh snow.
Ski on 200 kilometers of groomed nordic trails, snowshoe, go on sleigh rides, try skijoring, howl for wolves or mush a dog team.
Some years, the skiing is fantastic all the way to April Fool's Day and beyond.
The other great thing to do in early March is hike or snowshoe along the shore of Lake Superior to the ice caves on the Apostle Islands National
Lakeshore, near Cornucopia, Wis.
April/Missouri's Ozarks
This is what you do when you're dying for spring and all you get is slush: Travel to Missouri and catch spring there.
By April Fool's Day, daffodils, hawthornes and forsythia are blooming, with redbud and dogwood close behind.
The Ozarks are an outdoor playground, and still quiet this time of year; I'd head straight for the southern town of Eminence
and spend my days visiting state parks and
canoeing — or "floating,'' as it's called
here — on the wild streams of the Ozark National Scenic Riverways.
© Beth Gauper
In May, jeweled shooting stars cover hillsides near Trempealeau.
It's also a great spring-break destination if you have kids who love Laura Ingalls Wilder: Her last Little House, where she wrote all of her
famous books, is in Mansfield.
May/Mississippi River Valley
In May, everything happens along the Mississippi River. Pelicans and warblers follow it north. Thickets of wildflowers bloom on its shaded hillsides and open goat
prairies. Morel mushrooms pop up through old leaves.
It's a good time to visit Galena, Ill.,
the appealingly preserved 1850s boom town that groans under a crush of tourists in summer and fall. In Trempealeau,
Wis., the Trempealeau Hotel puts on open-air reggae and blues festivals along the river.
And it's the best time to visit state parks and take in some magnificent views: Pikes Peak State Park near the northeast Iowa
town of McGregor;
Perrot State Park in Trempealeau; Wyalusing State Park near Prairie du Chien,
Wis.; and Great River Bluffs near Winona,
Minn.
June/Lake Michigan
This is a great month to hit the big tourist spots on the Circle Tour of Lake Michigan, before the crowds arrive.
Mackinac Island
is most gorgeous in mid-June, when its lilacs and yellow moccasins are blooming.
From there, head down Lake Michigan to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, a 35-mile-long stretch of
beaches, dunes and trails.
A trip down the Michigan side is one of the best and also cheapest beach vacations, thanks to the many campsites as well as mini-cabins, camper cabins and lodges in Michigan state parks along the lake.
You can do a half Circle Tour by taking a short cut on the S.S. Badger, between Ludington and Manitowoc, or on the Lake Express High-Speed Ferry, between Muskegon and Milwaukee.
Be sure to allot a couple of days to Milwaukee.
Catch a Brewers game in Miller Park or one of the big festivals on the lakefront: In June, there's the Lakefront Festival of
the Arts, Polish Fest and
Summerfest.
July/A northwoods lake resort
© Beth Gauper
On the east shore of Lake Michigan, the Empire Bluff Trail winds above Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.
There's nothing more sweet and more fleeting than a July day on a northwoods lake, from coffee on the dock in early morning
to the midnight rush from sauna to lake, for a float under the shimmering canopy of stars and northern lights.
Any lake will do. Fishermen like big lakes, such as Minnesota's Leech or Winnibigoshish or Wisconsin's flowages. Paddlers head for the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Families prefer smaller lakes with resorts that have sandy beaches.
Charles Kuralt, of course, chose a lake near Ely: "Anyone who has known the deep woods and the blue
lakes, for a week or a season, puts himself to sleep ever afterward with memories of Ely,'' he wrote.
For resorts in Minnesota, see One in 1,000.
And if you don't have the time or money for a whole week at a lake resort, head for one of the region's great beaches for a day or two.
August/Lake Superior
The Circle Tour of Lake Superior is, in my
opinion, the best vacation, and August is the best time to take it. The water on the
southern shore is warm enough to swim in, the black flies are gone and, if you wait till the last half of the month, the
crowds will be gone, too.
In early August, the blueberries are ripe on the Keweenaw
Peninsula, and you'll likely see bears when you're out picking.
© Torsten Muller
The Eagle Harbor Lighthouse is on the Keweenaw Peninsula.
You can swim from the lovely beaches on Madeline Island or even from your kayak as you explore the Apostle Islands or the islands off Rossport in Ontario.
You'll see your fill of lighthouses, waterfalls and ore boats, and you may even see a moose. If seeing a moose is high on
your list, take the ferry to Isle Royale National Park.
For a nine-day itinerary, see Lake Superior's greatest hits. For planning tips, see Planning a Circle Tour.
September/Door County
This is the month to visit places that are packed during peak months, such as the Wisconsin Dells, Minnesota's North Shore and, especially, Door County.
Door County is the favorite hangout of Chicagoans, but there's a lull in the action between summer vacation and fall
color. Hotel prices even drop, though warmth lingers on the peninsula, wrapped by the waters of Lake Michigan.
Take the opportunity to paddle in the Mink River Estuary, bicycle on county roads or in Peninsula State Park, tour the lighthouses, hike in two dozen state natural areas and camp on Rock Island State Park.
© Beth Gauper
Wilson's ice-cream parlor is a Door County institution.
It's also harvest time, so stop by the many farm markets for apples and tour the six wineries.
For more, see Fall in Door County.
October/Driftless Area
In October, there's a mad rush to see fall color in such reliable spots as
Porcupine
Mountains Wilderness State Park in the U.P. and Chequamegon-Nicolet National
Forest in Wisconsin.
Later in the month, though, the best color is in hardwood forests farther south. In the third weekend, Devil's Lake State Park near
Baraboo, Wis., glows orange and gold, and Whitewater State Park in southeast Minnesota has a palette of russet and
ocher into the fourth weekend.
These craggy bluffs and valleys are part of the Driftless Area, a swath of southwest Wisconsin, southeast Minnesota and northeast Iowa that the last four glaciers missed as they scraped across the landscape.
The result is a charming hodgepodge of ridges, bluffs and valleys perhaps best known for its bicycle trails: in Minnesota, the Root River State Trail through Lanesboro, and in Wisconsin, the Elroy-Sparta State Trail and the three other trails in a 101-mile system.
Artists also have taken up residence along the winding roads of bluff country, and in fall they host studio tours that combine shopping with scenic
drives.
© Beth Gauper
Rocky bluffs surround Devil's Lake, one of the clearest in Wisconsin.
The one in northeast Iowa is the second weekend, and the big one in southwest Wisconsin is the third weekend.
For tips on where to find fall color, see Pursuing the
hues.
November/Minnesota's North Shore
Big, bad Lake Superior is most authentic in November: moody and dramatic, even violent.
Many people come hoping to catch a big storm, like
the one that caught the Edmund Fitzgerald in 1975; its sinking is commemorated every Nov. 10 at Split Rock Lighthouse.
But if that fails, hiking is wonderful. The
bugs and leaf peepers are long gone, the absence of leaves opens new vistas and mud has hardened on trails.
Better still, hotel rates drop by up to half. It's also a good time to rent a cozy cabin or house, preferably one with a big
wood-burning fireplace and picture windows.
For more, see Quiet time on the North
Shore.
December/Chicago
© Beth Gauper
A kiosk sells gingerbread cookies from Germany at Chicago's Christkindlmarket.
This is a city that really rocks during the holidays,
especially since it brought in a traditional Christkindlmarket, an open-air Christmas market like those in Germany. It's open
every day in Daley Plaza, filling its visitors with Glühwein and good will.
There's more shopping on the Magnificent Mile, ice-skating in Millennium Park, the beloved "Christmas Around the World'' trees at the Museum of Science and Industry and the Apollo Chorus' impassioned performances of Handel's "Messiah.''
The bonus for budget travelers is lower hotel rates; conventions peter out during the holidays, so rates go way down. For a rock-bottom rate, go during the week before Christmas.
For more about seeing the town on a budget, see Cheap Chicago.
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