A year of best places
Here's where you'll want to be each month of the calendar.
© Beth Gauper
The beach at Big Bay State Park faces the open water of Lake Superior.
Wouldn't it be great to spend a year enjoying yourself in the 12 best possible places?
Broadcast journalist Charles Kuralt once gave himself that dream assignment: Spend one month apiece in your favorite places in the United States, "at just the right time of the year.''
He devoted July to Ely, the northern-Minnesota gateway to the Boundary Waters Canoe Wilderness Area.
I could spend all 12 months right here, in the Upper Midwest. Here are the places I'd pick. (For more ideas, see 100 best places and Best of summer.)
January/A northwoods ski resort
There's nothing more beautiful than the north woods in winter, when the forest is a cathedral of snow, spruce and sky. Skiing at this time of year can be a religious experience; the solitude and the stark beauty of the winter landscape seem to induce contemplation and lofty thoughts.
Minnesota, Wisconsin and Michigan are honeycombed with beautiful trails. I'd choose the ones around Maplelag, a one-of-a-kind ski resort in northwest Minnesota that is as beloved for its warmth and hospitality as for its well-groomed trails.
If I still had young children, though, I'd go to Afterglow in northeast Wisconsin, a family resort where guests get
towed up a tubing hill by snowmobile and there's great snowshoeing, too.
For details, see Ski out the door.
February/Madison
Nowhere in the region is there so much to do within two blocks: Stay at the Madison Concourse Hotel. Eat at L'Etoile or
Harvest, two of Madison's best restaurants. Visit the Wisconsin Historical Museum and the Veterans Museum. Take a free guided
tour of the Capitol. Play in the snow during Winter Festival on President's Day weekend.
And that's just Capitol Square. Walk a block down State Street and you'll be at the Overture Center for the Arts, which has seven performing spaces and hosts international artists and Broadway shows as well as the local symphony, opera, theater and dance troupes. The weekend after President's Day, it hosts the Madison International Festival.
For a vibrant mix of shops and eateries, just keep walking down State Street. If you're bored in Madison, you're bored with
life.
For more, see Madison for all ages and
Shopping in Madison.
March/Gunflint Trail
© Beth Gauper
A skier heads onto the trails around Maplelag in northwest Minnesota.
When dirty slush clogs the rest of the region, the Gunflint Trail still has a sparkling layer of fresh snow. Ski on 200 kilometers of groomed trails, snowshoe, go on sleigh rides, try skijoring, howl for wolves or mush a dog team.
You can do it all during the Winter Tracks festival. For more, see The best days of winter.
The other great thing to do in early March is hike or snowshoe along the shore of Lake Superior to the ice caves on
the Bayfield Peninsula, near Cornucopia, Wis. In the best years, the ice along the shore allows access for a month or more,
from February to mid-March. In the worst years, it doesn't freeze at all.
For more, see Ice caves of the Apostles.
April/Missouri's Ozarks
This is what you do when you're dying for spring and all you get is slush: Travel to Missouri and catch spring there. By April Fool's Day, daffodils, hawthornes and forsythia are blooming, with redbud and dogwood close behind.
The Ozarks are an outdoor playground, and still quiet this time of year; I'd head straight for the southern town of Eminence
and spend my days visiting state parks and canoeing — or "floating,'' as it's called here — on the wild
streams of the Ozark National Scenic Riverways.
For more, see On the rocks in the Ozarks and
Floating Missouri.
May/Mississippi River Valley
In May, everything happens along the Mississippi River. Pelicans and warblers follow it north. Thickets of wildflowers bloom on
its shaded hillsides and open goat prairies. Morel mushrooms pop up through old leaves.
It's a good time to visit Galena, Ill., the appealingly preserved 1850s boom town that groans under a crush of
tourists in summer and fall. In Trempealeau, Wis., the Trempealeau Hotel puts on open-air reggae and blues
festivals along the river.
And it's the best time to visit state parks and take in some magnificent views: Pikes Peak State Park near the northeast Iowa
town of McGregor; Perrot State Park in Trempealeau; Wyalusing State Park near Prairie du Chien, Wis.;
and Great River Bluffs near Winona, Minn.
For more, see Chasing wildflowers, Hitting the trails in Trempealeau
and Great River Road stories.
June/Lake Michigan
This is a great month to hit the big tourist spots, before the crowds arrive. Mackinac Island is most gorgeous in
early June, when its lilacs and yellow moccasins are blooming.
From there, head down Lake Michigan to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, a 35-mile-long stretch of beaches that's been called "America's hidden Riviera.'' For more, see Grand sand.
It's one of the best and also cheapest beach vacations, thanks to the many campsites, mini-cabins, camper cabins and lodges in
Michigan state parks along the lake. For more, see Camping
around Lake Michigan.
Keep going to Ludington, where the S.S. Badger car ferry crosses to Ludington, or to Muskegon, where the Lake Express High-Speed Ferry crosses to Milwaukee. For more, see Navigating Lake Michigan.
In Milwaukee, catch a Brewers game in Miller Park or one of the big festivals on the lakefront: In June, there's the
Lakefront Festival of the Arts, Polish Fest and Summerfest. See Party in Milwaukee and Polish for a day.
July/A northwoods lake resort
There's nothing more sweet and more fleeting than a July day on a northwoods lake, from coffee on the dock in early morning to
the midnight rush from sauna to lake, for a float under the shimmering canopy of stars and northern lights.
Any lake will do. Fishermen like big lakes, such as Minnesota's Leech or Winnibigoshish or Wisconsin's flowages. Paddlers head for the Boundary Waters. Families prefer smaller lakes with resorts that have sandy beaches.
Charles Kuralt, of course, chose a lake near Ely: "Anyone who has known the deep woods and the blue lakes, for a week
or a season, puts himself to sleep ever afterward with memories of Ely,'' he wrote. For more, see Dreaming of Ely.
For help choosing, see A week at the lake. For
Minnesota resorts, see One in 1,000. For BWCAW tips, see
Minnesota's Boundary Waters.
August/Lake Superior
The Circle Tour of Lake Superior is, in my opinion, the best vacation, and August is
the best time to take it. The water on the southern shore is warm enough to swim in, the black flies are gone and, if you wait
till the last half of the month, the crowds will be gone, too.
© Beth Gauper
An artist paints the lilacs of Mackinac Island in mid-June.
In early August, the blueberries are ripe on the Keweenaw Peninsula, and you'll likely see bears when you're out picking. You can swim from the lovely beach at Madeline Island's Big Bay State Park or even from your kayak as you explore the Apostles or the islands off Rossport in Ontario.
You'll see your fill of lighthouses, waterfalls and ore boats, and you may even see a moose. For more, see Circling Superior. For a nine-day itinerary, see Lake Superior's greatest hits. For planning tips, see Planning a Circle Tour.
September/Door County
This is the month to visit places that are packed during peak months, such as the Wisconsin Dells, Minnesota's North Shore and, especially, Door County.
Door County is the favorite hangout of Chicagoans, but there's a lull in the action between summer vacation and fall
color. Hotel prices even drop, though warmth lingers on the peninsula, wrapped by the waters of Lake Michigan.
Take the opportunity to paddle or hike in the Mink River Estuary, bicycle on county road or in Peninsula State Park and camp on
Rock Island State Park. For more, see Outdoors in Door
County.
October/Driftless Area
In October, there's a mad rush to see fall color in such reliable spots as Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park in the U.P. and Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest in Wisconsin. For more, see Fall color stories.
© Beth Gauper
Rocky bluffs surround Devil's Lake, one of the clearest in Wisconsin.
Later in the month, though, the best color is in hardwood forests farther south. In the third weekend, Devil's Lake State Park near Baraboo,
Wis., glows orange and gold, and Whitewater State Park in southeast Minnesota has a palette of russet and ocher into the
fourth weekend.
These craggy bluffs and valleys are part of the Driftless Area, a swath of southwest Wisconsin, southeast Minnesota and northeast Iowa that the last four glaciers missed as they scraped across the landscape.
The result is a charming hodgepodge of ridges, bluffs and valleys perhaps best known for its bicycle trails: in Minnesota, the Root River State Trail through Lanesboro, and in Wisconsin, the Elroy-Sparta State Trail and the three other trails in a 101-mile system.
For more on southeast Minnesota in fall, see Bluff-country byways.
For more on southwest Wisconsin, see Valleys of
Vernon County.
For more on northeast Iowa, see Illustrious in Iowa.
Artists also have taken up residence along the winding roads of bluff country, and in fall they host studio tours that combine
shopping with scenic drives. The one in northeast Iowa is the second weekend, and the big one in southwest Wisconsin is the
third weekend.
For more, see Autumn in the studios.
November/Minnesota's North Shore
Big, bad Lake Superior is most authentic in November: moody and dramatic, even violent.
Many people come hoping to catch a big storm, like the one that caught the Edmund Fitzgerald in 1975; its sinking is
commemorated every Nov. 10 at Split Rock Lighthouse.
But if that fails, hiking is wonderful. The bugs and leaf peepers are long gone, the absence of leaves opens new vistas and mud has hardened on trails. Better still, hotel rates drop by up to half.
For more, see Hiking the North
Shore, Quiet time on the North Shore and
Gales of November.
December/Chicago
This is a city that really rocks during the holidays, especially since it brought in a traditional Christkindlmarket,
an open-air Christmas market like those in Germany. It's open every day in Daley Plaza, filling its visitors with Glühwein and
good will.
There's more shopping on the Magnificent Mile, ice-skating in Millennium Park, the beloved "Christmas Around the World'' trees at the Museum of Science and Industry and the Apollo Chorus' impassioned performances of Handel's "Messiah.''
For more, see Chicago at Christmas. For doing it on a
budget, see Cheap Chicago.
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