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In Bemidji, it's all about Bunyan. The northern-Minnesota town was first to create a giant Paul, in 1937, and it's the northern trailhead of the Paul Bunyan State Trail. The professional Paul Bunyan Playhouse stages plays in summer, and in August, a new opera festival is presenting "Paul Bunyan.''
What to do: Ride the first 7 miles of the Paul Bunyan State Trail along the eastern shore of Lake
Bemidji. Swim from the beach of Lake Bemidji State
Park. Catch a play at the Paul Bunyan Playhouse, "Three Days of
Rain'' through Aug. 2 or "The Music Man'' Aug. 6-16. Go to the first Lake Bemidji Summer Opera Festival, presenting "Carmen'' July 25-26 and
"Paul Bunyan'' Aug. 1-2. Buy a plaid ear-flap hat from Bemidji Woolen
Mills.
Events to catch: Aug. 1-2, Dragon Boat Festival on Lake Bemidji. Aug.
8, International Day at Concordia Language Villages, an open
house with food, canoe rides and cultural activities.
Where to stay: Ruttger's Birchmont Lodge, a full-service resort on the northwest
corner of Lake Bemidji; it has excellent deals the last half of August. The newer, lodge-style Hampton Inn & Suites has a
long sandy beach on the south shore near downtown, 218-751-3600. The 1910 Villa Calma B&B is on the west shore.
Information: Bemidji tourism. Also see Bemidji's behemoths.
In summer, Michigan's Keweenaw Peninsula is beautiful and cooled by Lake Superior, yet quiet even at the peak of tourist season. It doesn't have many "attractions,'' yet there's so much to see — carpets of wildflowers, soft pink-sandstone beaches, old mining towns, 10 lighthouses. In late July, blueberries ripen along roads and bear sightings are likely.
What to do: Take a boat tour to the 1866 Copper Harbor Lighthouse.
Kayak the Keweenaw Water Trail. Swim in Eagle Harbor and buy muffins at the nearby Jampot.
Take the ferry to Isle Royale. Pick blueberries and explore the beaches between Bete
Grise and Gay (pictured). Talk to the living-history interpreters at Fort Wilkins State Park. Tour
old mines and Coppertown USA in Calumet. Go to a concert
at the Calumet Theatre. Cruise the spine of the peninsula on Brockway Mountain Drive.
Events to catch: July 25-27, Civil War Encampment at Fort Wilkins. Aug. 9-10, Eagle Harbor Art Fair. Aug. 16-17, Art in the Park in Copper Harbor.
Where to stay: The quiet and genteel Lake Breeze in Eagle Harbor if there's a room, 906-289-4514. In the hills above
Copper Harbor, the WPA-built Keweenaw Mountain Lodge. Near Ahmeek, the Sand Hills Lighthouse Inn.
Information: See Digging the Keweenaw and Copper Harbor refuge.
For more than a century, vacationers have been making their way to this breezy hillside village on the south shore of Lake
Superior. It's the gateway to the Apostle Islands and a good place to hit the water by kayak, sailboat, ferry or launch.
What to do: Go kayaking with Living Adventure. Take a cruise of the Apostle Islands. Learn to sail or charter a sailboat. Take the ferry to Madeline Island.
Go to a concert or revue at Big Top Chautauqua. Pick berries in the orchards above town. Walk the three-mile Brownstone Trail along Chequamegon Bay. Bicycle around the Bayfield Peninsula.
Events to catch: July 26-27, Festival of Arts. Sept. 3-20, Lighthouse Celebration.
Where to stay: There's a large array of cottages, condos, B&Bs and motels; the city web site has an availability search.
Overlooking Chequamegon Bay on the edge of downtown, Seagull Bay is a friendly and
well-run motel. The Bayfield Inn overlooks the marina and cruise dock. A mile north of
town off Wisconsin 13, the Island View Inn and Cottages is a nice place for
families.
Where to eat: For a fun dinner with friends, Maggie's on Manypenny Avenue. For a special occasion, Wild Rice just outside town.
More information: See Beloved Bayfield.
When the rest of the Upper Midwest broils, this Lake Superior city basks in cool breezes. Canal Park is the tourist hub, but
there's a lot to do all over town.
When to go: Weekdays, in summer.
When not to go (unless you have a reservation): July 23-27, FinnFest 2008. Aug. 1-3, Tall Ships Festival. Aug. 7-10, Bayfront Blues Festival.
What to do: From Canal Park, watch ore boats and the Wednesday-evening sailboat races. Walk the Park Point Trail from the airport to the Superior entry of the harbor. Ride the North Shore Scenic Railroad. Go for a cruise on the Vista Fleet.
Around town, explore Skyline Parkway (take a dip in Amity
Creek if it's warm). Hike the Superior Hiking
Trail. Visit Glensheen mansion. Picnic in the
Rose Garden off the Lakewalk.
Events to catch: July 4, Fourth Fest in Bayfront
Festival Park. July 12, Bayfront Reggae Festival. Check the city events calendar for more.
Where to stay: In summer, hotels on Canal Park are
expensive but in the middle of the action.
In West Duluth, the Munger Inn is a good value, especially if you plan to ride the Lake
Superior & Mississippi Railroad, hike the western section of the Superior Hiking Trail, paddle on the St. Louis River or
bicycle on the Willard Munger State Trail (see Duluth's other waterfront).
Duluth with kids: See Duluth rocks!
With the temporary closing of its bridge across the Mississippi, Winona has had a
rocky start to summer. But now the scenic college town is ready for an action-packed July.
Getting there: It's scenic by car or by train. Amtrak's Empire Builder arrives
from the west at 10:11 a.m. and from the west at 7:50 p.m.
What to do: Walk, skate or bike the five miles around Lake Winona (pictured). See the new Minnesota Marine Art Museum. Visit the new Garvin Heights Vineyards and see the view. Watch the American Queen dock at 1 p.m. July 13 and Aug. 10 and 24. Explore the sloughs by canoe or kayak.
Events to catch: June 25-July 27, Great River Shakespeare Festival, with "The Merchant of Venice'' and "Taming of the Shrew,'' and free concerts (James Armstrong, Simone Perrin, Terpsichore, Dan Chouinard) are given on the Winona State University green before the Friday and Saturday shows.
July 1-20, Minnesota Beethoven Festival at various venues around town.
Where to stay: The Alexander Mansion, a luxurious Victorian B&B,
is throwing in a free ticket to the Great Shakespeare Festival with a stay. For budget accommodations, try the Alverna Center,
a guesthouse run by St. Mary's University, 507-494-6100.
Where to eat: Signatures, at the Bridges Golf Club in the bluffs. Close
to the river downtown, Jefferson Pub & Grill. For a good twist cone, Penguin Zesto near St. Stanislaus Catholic Church. For
a good beer and pub lunch, Bub's Brewing Co. at East Fourth and Center streets.
More information: See Afloat in
Winona.
When summer finally arrives, Lake Superior's largest and possibly friendliest town kicks up its heels and celebrates. Join in, and also see the many striking natural features that surround Thunder Bay.
What to do: Spend a day at Fort William Historical Park, a re-created fur post, and
see living history at its best. Visit magnificent Kakabeka Falls
(pictured). Walk along the marina in Port Arthur at sunset. Just east of the city, hike in Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, the long peninsula that creates Thunder
Bay's harbor. Dig for amethysts. See Ouimet Canyon.
Events to catch: June 25 through Aug. 20, free Wednesday-evening Summer in the Parks concerts in the marina. July 1, Canada Day in Marina Park. July 4-6, Blues Festival in Marina Park. July 10-14, Great Rendezvous at Fort William Historical Park. July 18-19, Dragon Boat Festival on Boulevard Lake. July 26-27, Battle of Fort William at the historical park.
Where to stay: The Prince Arthur overlooks the marina in Port
Arthur, the eastern part of town. On the southern edge of town, the White Fox Inn is a
luxurious inn/B&B/restaurant at the foot of the Nor'westers range. Nearby, old-fashioned Chippewa Park on the lake has cabins and camping.
Where to eat: For breakfast, the Hoito in the Finnish neighborhood of Port Arthur. For exquisite continental cuisine, Bistro One. For Italian, Giorg Restaurant in Fort William, 807-623-8052.
After a century and a half of industry, the downtown Minneapolis riverfront finally is a place to play. It's a magnet for
tourists and locals alike, and everyone wants to be outdoors: listening to free concerts, dining at sidewalk tables, strolling
on the Stone Arch Bridge, watching fireworks.
What to do: Run, walk, bike or skate the parkway loop from the Stone Arch Bridge to the Plymouth Bridge, through Boom and Nicollet islands. Take a cruise from Boom Island Park on the Minneapolis Queen. Take a Segway tour. Go on a horse-drawn carriage ride. Tour the Guthrie Theater. Take a historic walking tour from Mill City Museum.
Next to the Guthrie, the Mill City Farmers Market holds cooking demos and performances on Saturday mornings.
On the west side of the river, between the Plymouth and Broadway bridges, the Twin Cities River Rats put on free water-ski shows on Thursday evenings.
Free music: The Mill City Museum offers free concerts in its courtyard the first and third Thursdays at 6 p.m.
From June through August, free concerts are given at 7:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 5 p.m. Sunday in the courtyard between Vic's and Tuggs Tavern at St. Anthony Main.
Events: June 13-15, Stone Arch Festival of the Arts. July 4, Red White and Boom family festival with music from 3 p.m. and fireworks at 10 p.m. July 26,
Aquatennial fireworks show.
Where to stay: The limestone Nicollet Island Inn,
built in 1893 as the Island Door and Sash Co., is in the middle of everything. It has a restaurant and 24 individually
decorated rooms, all with views.
Where to eat: Buy a picnic at Surdyk's in northeast Minneapolis, two blocks from the east end of the Hennepin Bridge, and eat it on Nicollet Island. Also: Punch for pizza, Kramarczuk for Eastern European comfort food and Fugaise for French cuisine.
In summer, everyone wants to be in Chicago. So, of course, the price of hotel rooms skyrockets. Air fare isn't cheap, either. But the entertainment is free once you get there, and it's easy to eat well for very little.
Here are some tips for making a trip to Chicago affordable.
Getting there: Take Amtrak or the Megabus.
The earlier you buy the tickets, the cheaper they are.
Where to stay: Rooms are $28-$34 per person, including breakfast, at the friendly and comfortable Hostelling
International family hostel in the South Loop, voted Best Large Hostel Worldwide in 2006
and 2007. On weekends, volunteer locals lead forays around town.
Where to eat: There's a kitchen at the hostel and a Panera a block away. You also can eat well for less than $10 at Cosi, the Corner Bakery, Panda and Chipotle, all on Michigan Avenue; and at L’Appetito, a great Italian place at the foot of the John Hancock Tower.
Free events: There's always something going on at Millennium Park;
Navy Pier, which puts on a fireworks show every Wednesday and Saturday; and in Grant
Park, where the free classical Music Festival runs at the Jay Pritzker
Pavilion June 11-Aug. 15.
Other big Grant Park festivals include the Blues Festival, June 5-8; Taste of Chicago, June 27-July 7; Air and Water Show, Aug.
16-17; Latin Music Festival, Aug. 23-24; and Jazz Festival, Aug. 28-31.
Tours: Volunteer Greeters offer free tours of Chicago neighborhoods;
reserve seven to 10 days in advance.
Half-price tickets: Buy them on-line or at the Cultural Center at Michigan and
Randolph or the Water Works Visitors Center at Michigan and Pearson.
Information: Pick up a copy of the Time Out Chicago Student Guide, which is full of tips. The Chicago tourism office at the Cultural Center makes a good first stop; see what's going on and have a bite in the cafe.
In summer, most of the students leave this three-college river town, making way for the tourists. Most gravitate to Riverside
Park and downtown, and the hospitality center of City Brewery always is hopping, too. See Cruising La Crosse.
What to do: Go on a cruise of the Julia Belle Swain, a lovely steam-powered paddlewheeler, or the paddlewheeler La Crosse Queen. Drive up Grandad Bluff for a panoramic view of the town. Visit downtown's bars and ice-cream parlors. Tour City Brewery. Starting June 10, take a Historic La Crosse Trolley tour around town. Starting June 18, see a River City Water Ski show, 7 p.m. Wednesdays at Airport Beach.
Where to stay: Reserve your own 1917 country schoolhouse, the Wilson
Schoolhouse Inn, off U.S. 14/61 just south of town. In town, there are two B&Bs in stately homes, the Celtic Inn and the Bentley-Wheeler. Near City
Brewery, the Guest House Motel is a good budget motel.
Watch for: The newly constructed Shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe will be dedicated the week of July 28 in the scenic bluffs on the south edge of town, off U.S. 14/61. For now, lunch at its Culina Mariana restaurant and see the Stations of the Cross.
In May, this Wisconsin peninsula on Lake Michigan is as gorgeous as ever, but you don't have to share it with crowds. Venture beyond the shops to the headlands, estuaries, beaches and nature preserves. Many endangered and rare wildflowers (such as dwarf lake iris, pictured) bloom among the sandy ridges and boggy swales of Ridges Sanctuary in Baileys Harbor.
What to do: Hike in Whitefish Dunes and Potawatomi state parks. Paddle or hike in the Mink River Estuary. Bicycle in Peninsula State Park and on pastoral county roads. Tour some of the 10 lighthouses. Go on birding and blooms field trips during the Festival of Nature, May 22-24.
Other events: Lighthouse Walk, May 16-18. Fine Art Fair in Sturgeon Bay and Maifest in Jacksonport, May 24-25. Birding Festival on Washington Island, May 31-June 1.
Where to stay: The luxurious Blacksmith Inn is near Ridges Sanctuary. In
Ephraim, the Village Green Lodge in Ephraim is less expensive and very
pleasant.
This little Mississippi River village in southwest Wisconsin is an outdoors mecca in spring. It has everything anybody could want — exquisite wildflowers, bird-watching, canoeing, biking, hiking — even outdoor concerts (See Hitting the trails in Trempealeau).
Events: May 10, Birding Festival in Trempealeau National Wildlife Refuge just north of town, with an early bird walk, canoe/kayak tour, prairie wildflower walks, junior birder hikes and bird-banding. May 17, Blues Bash at the Trempealeau Hotel.
What to do: Climb Brady's Bluff in Perrot State Park, adjoining the north side of town, for a panoramic view down the river valley and, up close, La Montagne Qui Trempe a l'Eau, the mountain that soaks in water. On the way, you'll pass Fern Gully, a moist nook lined with spring ephemerals, and hillsides covered with the fragrant jeweled shooting star (pictured).
Go bird watching in the wildlife refuge, just north of the state park. The refuge also is a good place for bicyclists to head out on the 24-mile Great River State Trail, which heads south through the river bottoms to Onalaska.
From Van Loon Wildlife Area, just east of town, hike along the four-mile McGilvray Road
trail, where five rare bowstring-arch bridges cross red-tinted streams and there's lots of wildlife.
Where to stay and eat: The Trempealeau Hotel, justly famous for its walnut burgers, microbrews and river views.
In May, this hamlet in Minnesota's southeast corner will kick into high gear as bicyclists, paddlers and trout fishermen stream
into its many inns and B&Bs. The beautiful Root River State Trail jump-started Lanesboro's renaissance in the 1980s, but
now tourists also come for the theater and art.
What to do: Feeling sporty? Bicycle the Root River State Trail (Hint: If you're driving from the north on U.S. 52, drop off part of your party in Fountain for the nine-mile downhill glide into Lanesboro). Canoe or kayak the Root River. Fish for trout.
Feeling cultural? See "Peer Gynt'' at the new Commonweal Theatre. Shop for art at Cornucopia Art Center. Take an Amish tour in the countryside, or buy Amish goods at the Saturday-morning farmers market in Sylvan Park, which starts May 10.
When to go: On May 2-4, catch Ibsen Fest, a celebration of Scandinavian culture. May 17 is the Stand Still Parade in Whalan. June 7 is the goofy Rhubarb Festival. June 15 is Art in the Park.
Where to stay: The Cottage House Inn on Parkway Avenue always is a good bet, and there are many other inns and B&Bs.
Where to eat: Try the Vintage, which just moved to a storefront next to the Commonweal Theatre.
Celebrate John Muir's birthday, April 21, with a trip to the sand plains of central Wisconsin, where Muir and fellow naturalist
Aldo Leopold began to shape the conservationist ethic that made them famous (See Spring in the Baraboo Hills).
Leopold's shack and Muir's childhood home are half an hour apart and near the International Crane Foundation; Parfrey's Glen, the state's first natural area; and some of the most scenic stretches of the Ice Age National Scenic Trail.
What to do: North of Baraboo, visit the International Crane Foundation.
Leopold's farm is just to the east, along the Wisconsin River, and includes the famous Shack and the new Legacy Center. Half an hour farther east, visit John Muir's boyhood home, now John Muir County Park, 11 miles north of Portage.
South of Baraboo, hike the Ice Age National Scenic Trail in Devil's Lake State Park.
Just east of the park, walk in Parfrey's Glen. Just southwest
of Baraboo, visit Pewits Nest, another beautiful state
natural area.
Information: Baraboo has nightlife, good restaurants and shops.
Last May, a wildfire burned nearly 79,000 acres at the end of Minnesota's Gunflint Trail and Ontario (pictured, along the road in March). New life is emerging; expect a bumper crop of spring wildflowers and, some say, morel mushrooms. And on May 3, volunteers will plant 75,000 red- and white-pine seedlings.
It's part of the Gunflint Green Up festival May 2-3. Volunteers receive a T-shirt, Friday welcome picnic and Saturday box lunch, dinner and dance; trees and planting equipment are provided. Registration is $30.
On May 2, naturalists will lead a fire-ecology hike and boreal-forest talks and walks, the Gunflint Lodge's Sue Kerfoot will talk about trail history and Layne Kennedy will show photographs.
After the planting May 3, the Splinters will play for a dance at the Gunflint Lodge. On May 4, there's the Ham Run Half-Marathon and 5K Fun Run. This is the off-season, so lodgings are discounted.
Sections of the 65-mile Border Route Trail also took a hit from the fire as well as the 1999 blow-down, and the Minnesota Rovers Outdoors Club, which built the trail in the 1970s and maintains it, also is looking for volunteers. It's holding trail-clearing trips April 25-28 and May 15-18 and 22-26. Volunteers don't need to be members.
The Kekekabic Trail Club also is holding Gunflint trail-clearing trips May 2-4, 16-19, 17-18 and 22-26. Volunteer orientation is April 22 and 30 at Midwest Mountaineering in Minneapolis. People who want to use mechanized equipment can take Forest Service Saw Training April 19 and 20 at Bunker Hills Regional Park in Coon Rapids.
In Duluth, boat-watchers are waiting for their ships to come in.
Great Lakes freighters already have been coming and going; the Edwin Gott and Lee Tregurtha left March 23, and the Paul Tregurtha arrived April 2. But boat nerds watch for the first salties, not only because they're rarer but also because they're so much prettier than the barge-like ore boats. Last year, only 158 of the 1,231 freighters that called on the Twin Ports were ocean-going.
When to go: If possible, go on a weekday; boat traffic is just as brisk and you can get a good deal on a hotel.
What to do: Visit the free Lake Superior Marine Museum next to the Aerial Lift Bridge. Shop on Canal Park, at Fitger's and downtown.
Where to stay: The South Pier Inn has a front-row seat on the ship canal. It's now offering waterfront suites for $152-$192 on weekdays, including tickets to the Great Lakes Aquarium and Depot. That sounds like a lot, but rooms go for $177-$357 in summer. Other Canal Park hotels also are offering specials; check the Hot Deals at Visit Duluth.
How to keep track of boats: Check Duluth Shipping News, which estimates Twin Ports arrivals and departures, and Boat Nerd, which displays a map of current vessel locations on the Great Lakes.
What else to do: Gallery Hop on April 19, with the Port Town Trolley providing a free shuttle. April 22, Blue Man Group at DECC. April 27-May 4, 10th annual Homegrown Music Festival. Starting May 9, cruises on the Vista Fleet.
Everybody loves Galena, the cute little "town that time forgot.'' And because everybody can be a lot of people, spring is the best time to enjoy it. Tulips and daffodils bloom on the terraces, weather is mild and streets are not too crowded. And there's always lots to do and see.
What to do: Go on a trolley tour, a walking tour, a ghost tour, a vineyard tour or a kayak tour of the placid Galena
River. Take a cooking class or beading workshop. Visit the Ulysses S. Grant Home. See a musical show about Mark Twain. Shop, of
course. There's a complete list of events at www.galena.org.
Big events: President Grant's Grand Birthday Celebration April 18-20 includes living-history encampments, a ball, a period church service, concerts, a pie auction and dinner with "the famous and infamous.''
Where to stay: Choices are dizzying. In less-busy seasons, just stop by the visitors center, leaf through the photo albums and reserve an inn that looks good. Greenbriar Country Inn & Suites is well-priced, well-located and allows stays of just one night, even on weekends and holidays.
Getting there: It's a lovely drive down the river or through bluff country, but if you live in the Twin Cities and really want to get there fast, Northwest Airlines is starting service to Dubuque June 20. The fare for a June 20-22 getaway, as of March 25? A cool $499.
It cost Milwaukee big-time, but now the Brewers have a beautiful stadium with a retractable roof. When they open their season against Kansas City on March 28, no one will be shivering in the stands. There's lots to do downtown (See Playtime in Milwaukee) and you can get a good rate at hotels, which are expensive during the summer festival season.
Watching a game: City buses start running down Wisconsin Avenue to Miller
Park two hours before the game, $2 each way, and are waiting when the game ends. Don't miss the seventh-inning sausage
race, run by a brat, a hot dog, a Polish, an Italian sausage and a chorizo.
More fun for kids: Visit the new Discovery World science emporium and
aquarium on the lakefront, just south of the art museum.
What else to do: People love the Milwaukee Art Museum and its "wings,'' which open at
10 a.m., flap at noon and close at 5 p.m. And the always-popular Milwaukee Public Museum is
showing "Body Worlds.''
Nightlife: In April, see the Milwaukee Ballet at the Pabst, "Jesus Christ Superstar'' at the Milwaukee Theatre, "Girls Night: The Musical'' at the Marcus Center, Michael Bublé at the Bradley Center or "Enchanted April'' at the Milwaukee Rep.
Where to stay: The Hilton Milwaukee City Center on Wisconsin Avenue, if you have children. It's conveniently located and has an indoor water park.
For adult getaways, the art-deco Ambassador, the hip Hotel Metro, the Hampton Inn Suites or the InterContinental, connected to the Pabst and Marcus Center.
Information: 800-554-1448, www.visitmilwaukee.org.
Winter is slow for shops and restaurants in the smaller villages on this wide spot in the Mississippi. But they've emerged from their slumber with the reopening of the popular Harbor View Cafe in Pepin, which marks the start of tourist season. On a warm spring day, Lake Pepin is everyone's favorite road trip.
Where to start: It's a 70-mile loop from Red Wing, Minn., in the north and Nelson, Wis., in the south.
What to do: Watch for returning eagles. Visit the Maiden Rock Bluffs state natural area. Explore the artsy shops in
Stockholm (pictured). Check out the new Lake Pepin Art & Design Center in Pepin, which is showing textiles from Ghana. Visit
the new National Eagle Center in Wabasha. Have a latte in downtown Red Wing or climb Barn Bluff.
Where to eat/snack: In Maiden Rock, the Smiling Pelican Bakery. In Stockholm, Bogus Creek Cafe. In Nelson, the Nelson Cheese Factory. In Lake City, Nosh.
In Pepin, the Harbor View Cafe is open for lunch and dinner Fridays-Sundays until April 17, when it adds Thursdays. On Memorial Day, it adds Mondays. On particularly nice days, many people arrive by 5 p.m. (4:45 p.m. Saturdays) to avoid a long wait. No reservations or credit cards.
Dates to watch for (or avoid): During the Spring Flood Run, April 19, thousands of motorcycles will roar up and down
the river. The 100-mile Garage Sale is May 2-4.
Blooming dogwood and hawthorn, robins hopping around on new grass, beds of daffodils lining country lanes. Sound good? Then head for southeast Missouri, where frozen northerners will find spring in all its glory (See Floating Missouri and On the rocks in the Ozarks).
When to go: From late March through April, most days are sunny and around 70 (though they also can be cold and rainy).
In May, crowds from St. Louis and Kansas City start arriving.
What to do: Watch the Missouri Whitewater Championships on the St.
Francis River (shown) March 15-16. Paddle the Jacks Fork and Current rivers, part of Ozark
National Scenic Riverways, the first national park to protect a wild river system. Stand in the shadow of 680-ton Dumbo in
Elephant Rocks State Park. Gaze into the Deep Hole in Johnson's Shut-Ins State Park. Climb Missouri's highest point in Taum
Sauk Mountain State Park. Seek out old grist mills and turquoise springs. Eat grits and pet a coon hound.
Where to stay: On the Black River in rural Lesterville, the Wilderness
Lodge. For families, the YMCA's Trout Lodge near Potosi; it offers
spring-break rates through April.
Information: Missouri State Parks; Arcadia Valley tourism; Missouri
tourism.
In winter, Ely's wide open spaces are a playground for anyone who likes to move fast over snow (See Playtime in Ely).
What to do: Ski the Hidden Valley trails on the east edge of town, www.elynordic.org, or at Bear Head Lake State Park, seven miles south of Minnesota 169 between Ely and Tower. Snowshoe to the Hegman Lake pictographs or on the hilly North Arm trails, both off the Echo Trail north of town.
On the west edge of town, visit the new North American Bear Center, open Saturdays only until its three bears emerge from hibernation, www.bear.org. On the east end, visit the International Wolf Center, www.wolf.org.
March is one of the best times to mush a sled-dog team. In Ely, Paul Schurke's Wintergreen Dogsled Lodge, www.dogsledding.com, is best-known; for others, visit www.ely.org.
Where to eat: SuLu's Espresso Cafe in Tower is a delightful new spot owned by two sisters who grew up in Tower, moved away for 25 years and returned. Its raspberry-white chocolate scones are justly renowned; also try the homemade pasties and soup.
In Ely, check out the new brewpub at Cranberry's on Sheridan Street or Chapman Street Market, which sells panini, soups and salads in addition to artisan breads and cheeses.
Where to stay: Grand Ely Lodge is the largest, on Shagawa Lake just north of town, www.grandelylodge.com.
Information: 800-777-7281, www.ely.org.
Owls are heard but rarely seen in the wild, which makes Houston, Minn., a great place to be next weekend. It's the sixth annual
Festival of Owls, where visitors will meet such owls as Malcolm the barred owl, Pepe Lulu the barn owl, Oscar the long-eared
owl and Little Bit, a northern saw-whet (pictured).
During evening owl prowls, naturalists will try to call in owls, which start breeding in March. And of course, everyone will celebrate the hatch day of Alice, the resident great horned owl. Details: Owl aboard.
When to go: The festival is Feb. 29-March 2, but most events are Saturday, March. 1
What else to do: Houston is the eastern trailhead of the 42-mile Root River State Trail, used for cross-country skiing in winter, and snow has been ample. La Crosse is half an hour farther east, www.explorelacrosse.com; there's good eagle-watching there and elsewhere along the Mississippi, especially at Wabasha and Reads Landing to the north and below the Genoa dam to the south.
Information: 507-896-4668, www.festivalofowls.com.
How often do skiers and snowshoers find great conditions in southern Minnesota and Wisconsin? Hardly ever. But this year, the blizzards have veered south, making such non-hot spots as Winona and Baraboo great places to ski and snowshoe.
Where to go: Why not somewhere beautiful, like Devil's Lake State Park near Baraboo, Wis.? There's skiing on groomed trails and snowshoeing on the Ice Age National Scenic Trail, which cuts through the park. There's more than a foot of snow on the ground there and at nearby Mirror Lake State Park, just south of Wisconsin Dells.
In southern Minnesota, try the beautifully groomed trails at St. Mary's University, tucked into the bluffs on the north edge of Winona, or the trails at Frontenac and Great River Bluffs State Park.
What to do: "A Prairie Home Companion'' is coming to Winona Feb. 23, with special guests Beausoleil and the Marcia Ball Band, www.alumni.winona.edu. Also on Feb. 23, the Al. Ringling Theatre in Baraboo presents "The Bachelor,'' part of the "Guys on Ice'' comic trilogy, www.alringling.com.
Snow conditions: www.travelwisconsin.com; www.mnparks.info; www.skinnyski.com.
What to do during the day: Ski downhill at Granite Peak, which has expanded steadily and now has 74 runs served by
seven chairlifts. Ski cross-country at Nine Mile Forest, which has 30 kilometers of trails, six of them lighted. Visit the free
Leigh Yawkey Woodson Art Museum.
What to do at night: See a Broadway show in the Grand Theater, including "Dirty Rotten Scoundrels'' March 4-5. There's something every weekend, including comedians Colin Mochrie & Brad Sherwood Feb. 23, and Irish musicians Cherish the Ladies appear on St. Patrick's Day, March 17.
Where to stay: Going with kids? The Lodge at Cedar Creek, which has an indoor water park. Going for romance? The
handsome Arts and Crafts-style Stewart Inn. Have a pet? The Jefferson Street Inn.
Where to eat: Back When Cafe and City Grill, both of which serve classy American fare.
Information: 888-948-4748, www.wausaucvb.com.
Indoor water parks have popped up everywhere, but the biggest and best still are in the Wisconsin Dells. It's the best place to shake off chills and forget about winter. Details: Making waves.
When to go: Hotels are packed during spring break in March. Go now, preferably midweek, when rooms are cheaper and water parks are less crowded.
Where to stay: For the most thrills, stay at the Wilderness, Kalahari or Great Wolf, all of which have dozens of rides and water features. The Chula Vista is in a wooded setting on the bluffs of the Wisconsin River, the only resort off the strip, and it has a 60,000-square-foot water park, which used to be huge.
What to do: Bask in the warmth, of course (expect about 85 degrees). Each of the four resorts also has a day spa. And there's a 10-screen cinema next to the Kalahari.
How to save money: If you have kids who are younger than 8 or new to indoor water parks, stay at a smaller park. The big parks get so much buzz, the small ones go begging. So they're offering such extras as two lift tickets at nearby Christmas Mountain (the RainTree); two tickets to the Tommy Bartlett Exploratory (Copa Cabana) and discount tickets to the bigger Mount Olympus (the Atlantis).
Information: 800-223-3557, www.wisdells.com.
Events to catch: Feb. 2-3, Winter Festival on Capitol Square, www.winter-fest.com. Feb. 16, International Festival at the Overture Center. Both are
free.
Free Kids in the Rotunda concerts, Saturdays at 9:30 a.m., 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. Other concerts and plays at the Overture Center, www.overturecenter.com.
Where to stay: Hilton Monona Terrace, three blocks from Capitol Square, from $109 (be sure to ask for the Winter Getaways rate), www.hiltonmadison.com.
Where to eat: Ella’s Deli & Ice Cream Parlor, for the wacky toys, www.ellas-deli.com.
What to do: Take a free guided tour of the Capitol, 9, 10 and 11 a.m. and 1, 2 and 3 p.m. Monday-Saturday.
Information: www.visitmadison.com.
Where to ski: The Sugarbush system between Tofte and Lutsen has 69 kilometers of classical and skating trails groomed by Pisten Bully. The 3-kilometer Tofte Ski-down is all downhill from the Britton Peak trailhead to Sawtooth Outfitters/Bluefin Bay; the intermediate Homestead Loop, 12 kilometers from Britton Peak, has views of the lake.
Event to catch: On Feb. 16, there will be two candlelight skis, timed to coincide with the full moon: on the Sugarbush Trail at the Oberg Mountain trailhead near Tofte and at Gooseberry Falls State Park near Two Harbors (also for snowshoers).
Where to stay: For skiing out the door, the Cascade Lodge between Lutsen and Grand Marais, www.cascadelodgemn.com. Bluefin Bay has a lot of rooms and provides a shuttle for the Tofte
Ski-down, www.bluefinbay.com.
Around Lutsen, cross-country skiers compete with alpine skiers. Try Cove Point Lodge in Beaver Bay, www.covepointlodge.com Have kids? The Americinn in Silver Bay has a pool with a slide, www.americinnsilverbay.com.
Information: The handy new guide "Skiing the North Shore,'' by Andrew Slade, $15.95 at www.thereandbackbooks.com, has maps and all the information you need to find the best trails.
In winter, 1,000 trumpeter swans gather at a warm spot on the Mississippi River. Details: Snow birds
How to get there: It's about an hour west of the Twin Cities. From I-94, take the first Monticello exit, which leads to County Road 75 (East Broadway). At the first stoplight, turn right onto 39, drive a quarter-mile and turn left onto Mississippi Drive.
When to go: Sheila Lawrence feeds the birds around 11 a.m. every day; get there early and watch them fly in. Swans also can be seen downstream, just inside the city limits at Battle Rapids, where there’s a clearing off County Road 39.
What else to do: Shop at Albertville Premium Outlets, www.premiumoutlets.com. Ski at nearby Lake Maria State Park,www.mnstateparks.info. Eat downtown at Crostini Grille, www.crostinigrille.com. Stay at Riverwood Inn, www.riverwoodinn.com, or the Historic Rand House B&B, www.randhouse.com.
More information: www.monticellochamber.com.
By day, watch wintering eagles along the Mississippi River. In the evening, catch a concert at one of four surprising venues.
Eagle-watching: Catch them in and around Wabasha and below dams. Details: Open sesame on the sloughs
Concerts: Go to the Oak Center General Store near Lake City, the Music Loft near Red Wing, the Sheldon in Red Wing or Crossings at Carnegie in Zumbrota. Details: Music along the Mississippi
Where to eat: In Alma, Kate and Gracie's across from the dam, www.kateandgracies.com.
Where to stay: On the bluff in Fountain City, Hawk's View Cottages, www.hawksview.net, or in Wabasha at Eagles on the River, www.eaglesontheriver.com.
When to go: During the holidays, this glittering town becomes the City of Broad Smiles. Join the festive crowds at the
Christkindlmarket on Daley Plaza and along Michigan Avenue. For great hotel deals (try www.hotrooms.com and www.orbitz.com), go
the week before Christmas and after New Year's, when the city offers Winter Delights discounts that continue through
February.
What to do: Sip Glühwein and snack on warm sugared almonds at the remarkably
authentic German Christkindlmarket, open through Christmas Eve. "Wicked'' is drawing crowds to the Loop; check
www.chicagoplays.com. For half-price tickets to other plays, concerts and comedy and dance performances, check www.hottix.org
or stop by the Water Works Visitors Center at Michigan and Pearson.
There's a baby beluga whale to watch at the Shedd Aquarium and a new ice-skating rink in Millennium Park. At night, dive into
the blues; the closest clubs are the two Blue Chicago clubs in River North (one admission is good for both) and Buddy Guy's
Legends in the South Loop. House of Blues showcases blues and everything else: this winter, Wyclef Jean, the Go-Gos,
Queensryche, the Indigo Girls, Buckwheat Zydeco and Gaelic Storm.
Where to stay: The best value in town is the Club Quarters at Wacker, just off Michigan, especially if you can get a riverview room high in the 1928 Mather Tower. It's a club hotel for business people, but booking services sell rooms to the public on weekends and holidays, when rates can drop below $100. For romance, try the Hotel Burnham in the Loop; families will like the Homewood Suites by Hilton in River North; students and budget travelers can find a great deal at Hostelling International's hostel in the South Loop.
How to get there: Air Tran seems to have a $39 one-way sale from the Twin Cities to Midway nearly every week, www.airtran.com; from Midway, it's an easy ride downtown on the Orange Line CTA train. Fares on the Megabus from Minneapolis or Milwaukee can be as low as $1 each way if you book 45 days in advance, www.megabus.com. If you've got time, take the train, www.amtrak.com.
More information: 877-244-2246, www.choosechicago.com. The Chicago Cultural Center at Michigan and Randolph makes a good first stop; see what's going on and have a bite in the cafe.